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Chainsaws are a handy tool to have for keeping a well-manicured garden.  They make it easier to prune branches, and keep your hedges trimmed.  However, it’s not a one-size-fits-all.  With so many different chainsaws and bar lengths available, trying to work out the best bar length to purchase can be tricky. The best chainsaw bar length is generally 2 inches longer than the average thickness of wood you’re cutting. This is because it is better to have a smaller chainsaw bar that you occasionally also use for larger jobs, than it is to go the largest size chainsaw bar and try to use it on the smaller jobs. Chainsaw bars are quite versatile and can cut just under double their length by cutting the wood from both sides. We go further into why this is the best way to work out what the best chainsaw bar length is below… Should I just buy a bigger chainsaw? Well… no. If you don’t need the larger chainsaw, you’ll just be wasting money. The larger a chainsaw is, the heavier it is.  The larger the bar, the harder it is to manoeuvre.  Buying a bigger bar than you need, or are used to handling, will soon leave you physically fatigued.  It also doesn’t work out the opposite way. While a 20-inch bar works for cutting through mature trees, it becomes unwieldy for smaller jobs, making them more difficult. Even if you do have the occasional larger job, or tree that you need to cut down, you don’t necessarily need a larger chainsaw.  Although the recommended chainsaw bar length is 2 inches longer than whatever you’re cutting, that’s just to be able to cut it in a single pass.   By cutting the timber from both sides, the diameter you can cut is doubled.  For example, when using a 12-inch chainsaw, you can cut wood anywhere up to 10 inches thick in a single pass, or up to 20-inches thick by sawing through one half at a time. Read on to learn how to choose the best chainsaw bar length for you. How do I know which size chainsaw bar I need? The bar length that you need is dependent upon the tasks you’re using it for.  You wouldn’t use the same bar length to cut down a large tree as you would to prune your bushes, for example. To determine which chainsaw bar length is best for you, there’s three simple things to consider: How much experience you have with chainsaws. How often you’ll be using the chainsaw. The size of wood you’ll be cutting most often. It’s better to have the smaller bar that you occasionally also use for slightly larger jobs, than it is to go the largest size chainsaw bar you’d need, and try to use it on the smaller jobs. As I mentioned earlier, larger chainsaws are heavier, and harder to handle.  Introduce a sharp, high-speed chain blade into that mix and a lack of experience, and you put yourself at risk of physical injury.  And when things go wrong, they go wrong very quickly.  That’s why considering how much experience you have with chainsaws is a vital part of the selection process.  If you aren’t familiar with using a chainsaw, then a smaller chainsaw bar is better. For example, if the average dimension of your trees that you are cutting is 10 inch than you only need a 12 inch or maximum 14 inch bar. If there are a couple of trees that are up to 20 inches, you can still deal with them. But you are buying the chainsaw that suits the most of the types of trees you are cutting. So what size chainsaw bar should you get?  Recommended chainsaw bar length for home use For occasional light use around the yard, you’ll only need to invest in one of the smaller chainsaw bars.  For pruning back small tree limbs a 12 or 14-inch bar is all you need. If you have some mature trees that you want to prune the larger branches back on, you’ll need a slightly longer bar.  A 16 to 18-inch bar should be enough to get the job done.   This longer bar length will also work for cutting down small trees or removing shrubs. The best chainsaw bar length for cutting firewood If your primary use of the chainsaw is cutting firewood, then an 18-inch chainsaw bar is the recommended go-to.  It will be able to cut through most firewood in a single pass, anything between 16 and 32 inches will need two passes, but the chainsaw is still able to do the job, without you having to move up to a larger, heavier chainsaw. The best chainsaw bar length for farmers If you’re looking for a chainsaw to use out on the farm, then the 18-inch bar is recommended as the most versatile.  It can be used to cut down trees up to 32 inches in diameter (cut through one side, and then the other) and will easily cut through branches for pruning. If most of your cutting is larger trees and you’re able to use the heavier chainsaws, you might want to go a step up and buy a 20 or 22-inch bar. Which bar length is best for arborist chainsaws? Arborists perform most of their work off the ground – up in the trees, so a lightweight, manoeuvrable chainsaw is highly important.  Trying to carry a longer bar while climbing a tree isn’t the safest or most comfortable situation.  For pruning tree limbs in these circumstances, the versatile 18-inch bar is the most commonly recommended. Not all of their work is in the tree though.  Sometimes arborists need to remove a very large, mature tree, where the 18-inch just won’t cut it.  In these situations, the ideal bar length can be anywhere between 22 and 36-inches.  These extra-long bar lengths are professional territory, so unless you’re a lumberjack or arborist, you won’t ever need a chainsaw bar that size. 

A lush, thick lawn is the goal for many homeowners, and why wouldn’t it be?  It looks nice, it feels nice, and it will keep the weeds out on its own, making your maintenance work easier! But your lawn is patchy and you wonder how to get your grass to spread? Cutting grass will encourage it to spread. The speed that your grass spreads usually depends on your type of grass. Some grasses spread quickly by sending out runners. Other types of grass don’t spread as fast. Either way, cutting grass encourages it to put it’s energy into roots and new shoots instead of height. This will help your grass to both spread and thicken. What’s the best way to get your grass to spread and thicken, and how does your mowing affect it? Does frequent mowing thicken grass? Frequently mowing your yard, (if you’re following the correct practices), does help to thicken your grass.   As long as you don’t cut more than 1/3 off the top, and keep the total leaf height to at least 5cm, regular mowing keeps your grass healthy, and promotes lateral growth.  When you stop grass from being able to grow taller, it redirects the energy into sending off new shoots, resulting in thicker grass! Another way you can promote thicker lawn with your mowing, is to mow in different directions.  When you mow the lawn along the same route every time, you train the grass blades to grow that way.  By changing it up, and mowing from different directions, you will encourage the leaves to stand up straight.  This means that there’s more space for new shoots to grow alongside the current ones, so your lawn grows thicker (and feels softer). What happens to grass if you don’t cut it? The short answer is that when you don’t cut grass, it continues to grow taller (and starts to look untidy).  When your grass spends its energy in growing up, it stops sending out new shoots, and becomes patchier.  Longer grass requires more nutrients to maintain the continued growth, and your grass ends up competing to survive and grow (your lawn is actually made up of hundreds of individual plants, not just the one!).  As a result, some of the plants will die, so while your grass will be taller, it will also become thinner. If you stop mowing your lawn, you’ll also be giving weeds freedom to grow.  While growing taller is detrimental to the overall health of your lawn, the taller a weed grows, the more it thrives, and the harder it is to remove. Because of the 1/3 rule when cutting grass, when you do mow it again, you’ll need to mow it down gradually in a few passes over several days to get it back to the recommended height.  Trying to cut it all the way down in one go will shock the grass, and it will take time to recover, if it survives. You’ll also have a lot more clippings to deal with than usual, which you will need to rake up. If you don’t cut grass, (depending on the type you have), it will eventually go to seed. Should you let grass go to seed? There aren’t really any benefits to allowing your grass to go to seed.  To reach the stage where your grass is ready to seed, you have to let it grow tall enough, which brings with it the problems mentioned earlier: a patchy, less healthy lawn, increased weed growth and general messiness. There’s the also the question: why do you want it to seed? If it’s to add more grass seed into your lawn so that it will grow thicker, then it better to sow bought seed.  Grass grown to seed in backyards is generally infertile, so the seeds won’t help to spread and thicken your lawn.  Developing the flowering seed heads also takes energy that the grass would otherwise be using to grow thick and healthy. If your goal is to have a thick, lush lawn, then letting your grass grow to seed isn’t ideal.  Will grass spread to bare spots? Whether your grass will spread to bare spots on its own depends on a few factors. What type of grass do you have? Is the bare patch fertile soil, or poor quality? There are a few different ways that grass spreads; if you have a type of buffalo grass then it sends out runners. This type of lawn will spread out into the bare spots (unless the reason there’s no grass there is lack of sun or other environmental factors).   If you have a seeding grass variety, you will be waiting a long time for your grass to spread shoot by shoot, into new areas. In this case, the best way to deal with bare spots in your lawn is to overseed your lawn. Read on… Can you put lawn seed on top of grass? You can put grass seed on top of grass. It’s called “overseeding” and is a standard method used to fill out thin or patchy lawns. The newly sprouted seed fills in any gaps, (even tiny ones) and keeps your yard looking thick and lush. To make the most of overseeding, mow your lawn first. Then dethatch or rake vigorously before sowing the seeds so that they can penerate the soil. Then keep the soil moist for the next couple of weeks and watch your grass thicken before your eyes! How do I get my grass to grow thicker? If you want thicker grass, you need to give it a little extra care.  First, check your soil. You can try every strategy on growing thicker grass, but if your soil is lacking, then your grass will always struggle.  Give yourself (and your grass) a head start and make sure you’re planting in quality soil.  The next essential is to keep it well-watered; a thirsty lawn is a yellowing lawn.  If you don’t have time to water your lawn

Lawns, when cared for properly, can become the envy of the neighbourhood. If you’ve just set up your new lawn, or are thinking to, you may be wondering if mowing new grass helps it to grow? Cutting new grass can help it to grow, but only if you do it correctly and at the right time. You need to wait long enough for your grass to take root before mowing it and don’t cut more than 1/3 of the leaf height. Then you’ll be helping your new grass to grow thick and healthy. However, when cutting your new lawn, it can be a fine line between help and harm. What are the things you need to know before you start mowing? Read on to learn when, and how to make your first cut. How Mowing New Grass Promotes Growth Grass uses a process called photosynthesis. This is when the plant turns sunlight into the nutrients the plant needs. Because of this, your new grass needs the sun to grow (and the big reason why grass doesn’t grow too well in the shade). As the grass grows taller, you may notice that some bits grow faster and are taller than others. The taller blades block the sunlight to the shorter ones. By mowing regularly, you keep the leaves at the same height, so that they all have access to the sun, and grow evenly. There is another reason why mowing new lawn promotes growth. When you prevent the grass from growing vertically (skywards), it converts that energy into growing horizontally (along the ground). The end result is thicker grass. This is why mowing new grass frequently helps it to grow from patchy little tufts to even coverage in a shorter space of time. Thicker grass will also make it harder for any weeds to grow! Should I Mow My New Grass Short? You might be thinking: “well if keeping it short makes it grow thicker, the shorter it is, the faster it’ll spread”. Hold on! It doesn’t quite work that way. Grass has a minimum height that it needs to be to stay healthy. If you cut it too short, or cut too much off at once, you can harm it health. This is called scalping your lawn.  What does scalping mean? Read on! Does scalping kill grass? Scalping your lawn places extra stress on the plant and will slow down growth as it will put its energy into recovery, not growth. Scalping causes damage to an established lawn, but to a new one, it can be devastating.   Never cut more than 1/3 of the total height off the leaves when you mow, and its minimum height should be 2.5-3cm. If you cut your new lawn so low that go past the green leaf blades and into the stems this is called “scalping.” And it’s something you’ll want to avoid as your lawn needs its leaves to turn sunlight into nutrients. The extra stress on your grass leaves your lawn less capable of handling drought and gives weeds a chance to grow through. Now that you know how mowing improves lawn growth, (and the risk of scalping), read on to learn when, and how to make your first cut. The first cut of a new lawn You’ve started a new lawn and are starting to see some growth, so now comes the question: when do you make the first cut? When to mow grass for the first time To work out the best time to mow your new grass for the first time you need to consider how you planted it. The main thing you want to look at is the strength of the grass blades if you grew your lawn from seed. Are they still very fine, or do they have some width? And for turf, whether the roots have established. New grass takes time to establish a root system strong enough to secure it. Until then, walking on it is enough to cause damage, so trundling a mower over it can leave wheel tracks of torn out grass, especially when turning. (Which is not what you want when spending the time and money to grow a beautiful new green lawn).   You’ll also want to let it grow a little higher than usual before the first cut, around 6cm. When you mow, only take it down to about 4cm, following the 1/3 rule (never cut more than 1/3 of the total height off. No scalping!). Keep your mowing to this height weekly for the next few weeks, before trimming it down to your grass species recommended height (generally around 2.5-3cm). When to mow new turf You’ll generally need to wait 3-4 weeks after laying turf for the roots to take hold. Before mowing, give the corners of the lawn a light tug to make sure it’s secure. Another thing to note is that the soil where the turf is laid should be kept moist until the roots are established. But soft damp soil is not suitable for mowing (especially new roots). Turn off any watering you have set up 48 hours before your first mow to give the ground a chance to dry.  Mowing new grass seed Growing a lawn from new grass seed is a waiting game; it may take up to 2 months before it’s ready for mowing. The important thing is to be patient. Mowing too soon can uproot your newly sprouted grass, and the new shoots don’t yet have the strength to withstand the mower blade. Newly seeded lawn also needs to be kept moist while it establishes. You can see in this picture below, each blade of newly seeded grass is way too fine to cope a hit with the mower. Let the leaves broaden and get stronger, before you walk on them or mow them. As with the turf, stop all watering to the lawn 48 hours before the first mow, giving it a chance to dry. Can I mow after overseeding? If you have a damaged or

It’s time to sharpen your riding mower blades and you don’t know where to start. We know that it can be daunting, so we thought we would put together a quick guide on sharpening riding mower blades. Sharpening riding mower blades promotes an even cut and keeps your grass healthy. Before sharpening mower blades, make sure the riding mower cannot accidentally start by removing the spark plug boot. Depending on the make and model, you then either jack the rider up or remove the deck so you can access the riding mower blades to clean them and sharpen them.   Now let’s take a look in further detail on how to sharpen your ride on mower blades. Tools you need to sharpen a ride on lawn mower blade Work gloves and safety glasses, Sponge/washcloth and some warm soapy water should do) Usually a 15/16 socket wrench A  2-by-4 block of wood Vise Clamp Nail Hand file or angle grinder with metal abrasive disc Marking pen Safety when servicing your ride on mower blades Even old blades can have sharp points that can cut your hands. Always wear quality nitrile coated gloves when handling your ride on mower blades. Move your mower to a hard, flat surface. Apply the brake. To prevent accidental start up of your ride on mower while you’re working on the blades , remove the spark plug boot and drain the fuel.  Accessing your riding mower blades Depending on your riding mowers make and model, there a three basic ways to access the mower blades. Adjust your rider mower deck to the highest setting. Lay down on the floor and access the blades by reaching under the deck.   Jack up your mower using a hoist, floor jack or mower jack to give you enough room (also make sure your deck is on the highest setting before jacking it up). If using a jack, make sure you use the jack stands for safety. Make sure that the placement is correct, and it’s secure before sliding under it! Remove the deck to access the blades. You will need to lower the deck to the lowest position. Remove the belt guard, and then you can remove the belt from the pulley. Then you will need to remove the pins that hold the back of the deck – there is one on both sides of the deck. Next remove the front deck attachment point. Lastly you need to remove the PTO cable, there is a pin that secures it – so remove that first. Then pull the cable up and remove the spring. Now you can pull the deck out from underneath the mower, and flip it over to access the blades. Can I sharpen blades while still on the riding mower? You can sharpen mower blades while they are still on the mower, even though this is not the best way. Time how long you spend filing each blade to ensure you spend the same amount of time on each side. This will help you prevent ending up with unbalanced blades that can harm your rider. But to get the best results, you are best off taking the blades off the mower to sharpen them. It is not much extra effort to remove the blades. And it makes it a lot easier to access the edges (you can clamp it into a workbench vice, rather than kneeling or laying on the ground) Removing the lawn mower blades to sharpen then will give you better access to the blade for a steady hand and more polished job. It means that you can clamp it in a vice and focus on ensuring the angle is consistent the whole length of the blade. But the most important reason to remove your blades when you sharpen them is so that you can check their balance once you’re finished. You can’t actually check the balance of your blades without taking them off the mower. An unbalanced blade can actually damage your ride on mower. Listen for any unusual noises coming from under your mower deck next time you mow; you may need to take it somewhere to be serviced and ask them to balance it for you. Removing riding mower blades To remove the riding mower blades you will need your chock of wood, your 15/16 socket wrench, and your marker. First reach under and mark the underside of the blades with your marker. This will ensure that you know which side of the lawn mower blade is up, so you can ensure that you reinstall them correctly. The lawn mower blades are secured by a nut. The challenge is that when you turn the nut, the blade turns too. This is where your chock of 2×4 wood comes in handy. Place the chock of wood inside the deck to prevent the blade from rotating. Then you can loosen the nut with your socket wrench. Give the rider mower blades a good clean It’s no good trying to work with a blade that is covered in dirt, oil, or grass clippings, so get your cleaning gear and give them a good wipe down.  Once they are clean and shiny, dry them off with a clean cloth. Sharpening riding mower blades First you want to clamp your bar blade in the vise. This will allow you to focus on getting ensuring you sharpen the blade evenly along the length of the blade. No matter what sharpening tool you use, try to spend the same amount of time on each end while sharpening so that you don’t take more metal off one than the other. This will help you prevent your blades from becoming unbalanced Sharpen mower blades by hand You can now sharpen your riding mower blade by hand using a file. If you are wondering what angle should lawn mower blades be sharpened at, it is quite simple. The angle of each blade can be a bit different, so just follow the angle of the original

It can be tricky maintaining a neat and tidy garden, especially if you have trees growing in the middle of your lawn. Trying to mow around trees can make the job more challenging, but it is important to cut grass under trees the right way.  When mowing under trees you have to avoid both the tree trunk and any exposed roots in your lawn.  You may be able to use a mower, but for narrow areas you may be better off with a grass trimmer or hand clippers. First, pick up any debris under the tree. Then cut grass carefully making sure you do not hit the tree or roots at all. If you don’t it could cause you more headaches than the original long grass underneath the tree. Let us guide you in your mowing adventure, and give you a few tips on how to reduce the problem. We’ve covered everything you need to know, read on! How do you mow around tree roots? The main thing is that you don’t want to get close enough to the tree or exposed roots that you touch them with the mower. (That way, both your tree and your mower are safe from damage). Whatever you do, don’t just mow over the roots. This causes damage both to the tree and to your lawnmower.  We will now go through specific strategies on how to mow under trees and while protecting the tree and its roots. Imagine an area around the base of the tree of about 1-1.5 meters (3-5 feet) that you don’t cross. As you reach this imaginary boundary, slow down and take more care.   You can do the same thing for any exposed roots growing in the middle of your yard, away from the tree’s base. In this case, a one-meter perimeter should be ok. Pick up Sticks before Mowing! The first thing you need to do is pick up all sticks and seed pods from underneath the tree.  Trees are excellent for providing shade, creating a relaxing environment, and encouraging birdlife into your yard. They also drop sticks, leaves and seedpods (depending on the species). You’ll want to pick these up off the lawn before mowing, (especially the larger ones) as they can damage your mower if it runs over them.   The dropped branches and seedpods can also be flicked back at your legs and feet at high speed by the mower blades, (and you’ll certainly know about it when it does!), with injuries ranging from a bruise to a cut. It can be easy enough to pick the larger items up by hand, but you may want to use a rake to catch the smaller debris.   Be aware of any low hanging branches too. It’s up to you whether you want to trim them first, or duck underneath them as you mow… just don’t get caught on them! Cutting grass under a tree with a lawnmower If exposed tree roots are not raised too far above the lawn surface and you have an adjustable height mower, the easiest thing is to raise the height of your mower. But you need to be careful here, and really make sure the lawnmower will clear the roots.  If you have an adjustable height mower, then when you get close to the tree you can raise the height of your lawn mower. For bigger spaces, you can also get a zero-turn mower to make the job more manageable, as it has greater manoeuvrability in tight corners.  Using a string trimmer grass around a tree When trying to cut grass around obstacles and in pokey little areas many people reach for a string trimmer. You might know this as a whipper snipper! But you really need to proceed with caution and go slow. The nylon cord is able to cut the bark and damage the tree so really you don’t want to go too close. Just use your string trimmer to get ‘close enough’ to the tree trunk,  or use it to access the areas in between surface tree roots leaving some long grass closest to the bark. I need to emphasise how important it is not to get too close to the tree with a whipper snipper. If you go around the trunk and hit the bark, you are likely to end up ring barking the tree. The bark is the passageway for all nutrients to get from the roots to the top of the tree. If you cut the bark all the way around the tree, then you can say goodbye to your tree, as it will die.  Finish off the job with Hand Shears If you do need to trim grass right up to the base of the trees, or over exposed roots, use a pair of hand shears. It’s handy to have an outdoor pillow you can kneel on while doing this, it’ll save your knees. Does mowing over the roots really damage the tree?  Damage to surface roots by the mower are not just superficial damage. It weakens the tree’s defence against the elements, making it vulnerable to disease and pests. Just like us, open wounds are not something you want for a healthy tree.  Many people are not aware that injury and infection started by lawnmower wounds can often be the most serious threat to tree health. Although large wounds are most serious, repeated small wounds can also add up to trouble. Tree bark isn’t just a protective outer layer of the tree (like our skin), it’s also an essential part of the tree’s delivery system: transporting vital nutrients. Depending on how severe the wound is, it can reduce or cut off the flow of water and nourishment that’s fed into the tree by the roots You could also think of roots as a kind of anchor; trees are heavy, especially as they get bigger. Roots are the support system that keeps the tree in the ground and standing upright. Damage to the roots, when significant enough, or on a critical root, will

So, it’s time to mow the lawn. But the grass is still wet and you’re left asking yourself, “To mow, or not to mow: that is the question?” Mowing wet grass damages it, puts it at risk of fungal disease and can even kill it. Cutting wet grass can also ruin your mower and put your own personal safety at risk. If you want to do what’s best for you, your lawn and your equipment; don’t mow the grass while it’s damp. But if you have no other option, mowing wet grass is possible. But there are some things you need to be aware of to do it properly and safely. So, why shouldn’t you mow grass when it’s wet? I’m glad you asked! Read on to immerse yourself in the wonderful world of mowing wet grass. If you’re looking for the short version, scroll down to the heading “So is mowing wet grass bad?” Why should you not cut wet grass? It’s never the best idea to mow wet grass as it will cost you more time and energy in the extra work that it creates. Grass is heavier when wet and are often bent under the weight of the water. Once the grass dries, and the blades spring back up you’ll need to do the job all over again; making your first mow a waste of time and energy. Unless you really love mowing, save it for when you’ll be able to do the job just once. Not only that, mowing wet grass is bad for the overall health of your lawn, for several reasons. So if you are still asking if it is it better to mow before or after rain, then in most cases mowing grass before a rain is best. Can You Mow In The Rain? The thing to think of before mowing in the rain is your own personal safety. Grass is a very slick surface when wet, which puts you at risk of slipping. That alone can put you at risk of a pulled muscle or damaged tailbone (landing on that is incredibly painful, believe me). Add a lawnmower into the mix, and the risk of body parts going under it, and I’m sure you can see how this could end very badly. Mowing accidents do happen, and they aren’t pretty. Perhaps you have the right kind of grippy shoes or just aren’t worried about slipping. In that case, why not go ahead and mow the lawn in the rain? As long as the landscape is not too soggy, you are likely to get away with mowing in the rain. But if the ground is too wet it can cause lawn ruts which is a whole other problem. You need to assess if it is a light sprinkle of rain or a heavy down pour and use your common sense! Read on for more issues and solutions around mowing wet lawn. Mowing After Rain – Damp grass doesn’t cut cleanly. There’s nothing nicer than the look of a freshly cut lawn. That is unless you cut it wet!! When you cut wet, you run the risk of mud tracking. This is when the mower tires bring the muddy water to the surface and covers the blades of the grass. It is really quite ugly, and won’t go away until your next rain. I have to take a picture of a mower track, but until I do here is mud tracking done by a car on lawn Will mowing wet grass kill it? Mowing your lawn wet does not guarantee that you will kill it. But it is likely to do some harm, and can ultimately kill it and cause a patchy lawn. When mowing a wet lawn you’re actually opening the door for fungus and disease to take hold of your lawn! This is because wet grass doesn’t cut cleanly, it tears. These tears, combined with the damp, create the perfect conditions for fungal growth and turf diseases. If the grass is wet, then the soil beneath it probably is as well. You don’t want to mow on moist ground; your mower can sink into it. The degree of damage depends on the degree of damp: if the earth is really soggy, the wheels will form ruts, directly damaging the grass, and tearing up the roots. Once that happens, yep that lawn is not coming good again for a while. The other less obvious danger is if the ground isn’t soggy enough for the wheels to sink in, the soil will still be compacted by the mowing. While this might not sound too bad on the surface, it does affect the root system beneath. A healthy lawn needs its roots to be able to access oxygen, water and nutrients to survive (Just like us!). When the soil gets compacted, it means that these essentials can’t get in, and the grass dies. How do I stop grass from clumping when I mow? When you mow wet grass it clumps together, creating problems for your lawn and your mower. The clumps of clippings left on the lawn can kill the patches of grass beneath it. This is because, the grass underneath does not get enough sunlight and airflow. On top of this there is prolonging the damp in that spot and again, enabling fungal strains and diseases to take hold. If you want to grow a beautiful, healthy lawn to impress your friends (who wouldn’t be proud of a well-maintained lawn?), then the last thing you need is ugly brown patches of diseased turf. These will take time to heal and may require the purchase and use of fungicide before your lawn is healthy again. Wet grass stains. Cut wet grass stains a lot. Everything it gets on will be green. You, your shoes, your driveway, any place the clippings are blown. It will transfer to your floors if you don’t take your shoes off at the door. Wet grass even stains concrete, and it takes a lot of scrubbing to

Sadly, fighting fires is becoming more common. Two thousand homes have been destroyed in the recent bush fires raging across Australia. Having fire fighting pumps on a property can help save a home or building. Choosing the best kind of fire pump can make all the difference. There are many things to consider. It’s always best to know what conditions you might encounter. The right fire fighting pump will give your building a head start when fires get too close for comfort. If you choose to stay at home and fight the fires, you need a fire fighting pump. It’s as simple as that. You’ll need to choose a pump that meets flow and pressure requirements, government standards, and can handle other purposes as well as fire fighting. To make sure you have all the information you need, here’s what to look for when choosing a fire fighting pump. Determining Your Fire Fighting Pump Needs The most important thing you need to do when considering a fire fighting pump is to work out what your needs are. You need to consider the conditions your pump will work under. You’ll want to make sure you understand any state and government regulations. Make sure you’re aware of the water supply situation. You’ll need to know how much water flow and water pressure you’re likely to need, too. Conditions and Regulations The local conditions are one of the biggest factors to keep in mind. Are wildfires a regular occurrence where you live? Do some research on the weather and environment in which you live.  Standards Australia has specific regulations for water storage to follow for your fire pump needs. There’s also a handy checklist produced by the Pump Industry Association and the Fire Protection Association Australia you can use to make sure you’re complying with all the rules. Water Supply Knowing about the water supply in your area is also important. It won’t matter what kind of pump you install if the water supply is going to limit the amount of water coming through the system and into your pump. If there are no bodies of water to tap into and you’re using a community hydrant system you should determine what the supply is through that hydrant to that you get the right-sized pump.  Pressure You may have enough water supply and flow, but your pump also needs enough pressure in the system to push the water through to quench the fire. That’s where your pump comes in, of course. A good fire-fighting pump will make sure you can reach the fire itself.  Planning ahead and knowing what you need will ensure you get the right kind of fire fighting pump. Following the guidelines above means, you won’t be fighting a fire in the future and wishing you had a different kind of pump. Different Types of Fire Fighting Pumps Once you have assessed the conditions and you understand the requirements, you’ll be ready to think about the technical aspects of your fire fighting pump. The three main things on your checklist will be size, power, and quality. Each aspect is important to consider and all three need to match your needs. Size and Power Size doesn’t just refer to the actual capacity of the pump. The hose you use also needs to be the right size. If your hose doesn’t match your pump capacity you’re limiting the potential of your pump. The power source for your pump is also a decision you’ll need to make. General water pumps are mains powered, but having a backup power source is crucial in case the electricity is affected by the fire. Diesel and petrol are your two main options for a fire fighting pump.  Mobile Fire Pump If you’re planning for the fire seasons and live in a fire prone area then you should consider putting in a water tank that you don’t tap into for drinking. This tank should have the appropriate fitting if the fire brigade ever need to connect to it, and it also give you a water source- as fire often occurs in drought. A mobile fire fighting pump isn’t as powerful as a fixed one, but for most private homes it’s likely to be the option you choose.  You’ve determined the conditions and the type of pump you need, so you’re most of the way there. But there’s a couple more things to put on your checklist before putting down hard cash. Other Things to Consider Your budget will also determine the kind of fire fighting pump you choose. What is the landscape like? You might need a pump that is more powerful to move water up slopes. It’s hard to predict the future, of course, but thinking about it upfront will at least mean you’re prepared.  There’s lots to contemplate, but you’ve got the information you need. Put all the items above into your decision on which fire fighting pump to install. Build Your Next Home with a Fire Fighting Pump None of us wants to have to fight a fire at our home. Still, it’s a necessity, especially if you live in an area where wildfires are common. Even if you don’t think you’re at immediate risk, if you’re building a new home or renovating your current one, having a fire plan is smart. Little things like cleaning your gutters, roofs and down pipes from leaves and debris. Many experts recommend cleaning your gutters at least twice a year– once in the late spring and once in the late summer/early Autumn. Mowing your lawn regularly and cutting down any overhanging branches from near your house. And don’t forget to prune nearby shrubs. At Canberra Diamond Blade Suppliers, we can help you find the best pump for your needs. We have access to a wide inventory and different dealers. We want to help you prepare for the worst so that if it happens you have less to worry about. Also don’t forget a few things like keeping your car filled with fuel during fire season. You don’t want to be stranded with an

You might think that render is only applied to exterior walls, to provide a waterproof coating or to create an attractive finish. But did you know that rendering interior walls can set your house apart from the rest. You can render internal walls to create stand out design features in any home or office. Internal render improve the appearance of an outdated wall, create a feature, and add modern appeal. Internal render is versatile and can be used in any room. What makes concrete rendering such an effective material and how should you use it in your property or for a commercial fit out? What Is Internal Concrete Rendering? To begin with, it is probably worth examining exactly what concrete rendering is. It is the same as rendering with cement – both terms are interchangeable. Either way, rendering with concrete is a very low-cost way of forming a smooth wall surface on any type of masonry. If you have an internal wall made of besser blocks, for example, then concrete rendering can make it look much smoother and aesthetically pleasing. It can also spruce up internal walls made from standard brickwork. What is the mix for cement render? All that you need to render a wall with concrete is a mixture of sand, cement, water and lime. Coarse sand is perfect for the first layer of render while fine sand makes for a more attractive finish for the final, outer layer. The lime helps prevent unwanted fissures from forming once the water has evaporated out of the mixture. So you are left with a hard, dry and smooth finished layer. A common mix ratio used for rendering is 6 parts sand, 1 part cement and 1 part lime Concrete render feature wall It is fair to say that concrete rendering is usually used outside because it has protective qualities. It helps protect walls from excessive sunlight and rainwater. But, this does not mean that it is only good for outdoor applications. Rooms like bathrooms and kitchens can benefit from the water protection properties of concrete rendering. But because of the versatility of concrete render, you can used it on any interior wall simply to make it look better. It can also cover up any outdated styles and imperfections in the masonry. A Concrete Render Finish- Make your Wall Spectacular! When it comes to concrete rendering, you have a whole range of creative opportunities. You don’t need to limit the look of your wall to an application of a smooth layer of cement mixture alone. You can really make a statement by working into the render lots of different patterns while the mixture is wet. Commonly, people apply swirls with grooved instruments into their render to make attractive shapes that will set hard and remain permanently in place. Can you Colour cement render? You can also add dye to render which can give you a completely different look to a standard painted wall. A concrete render has more depth and personality. Concrete works very well with dyes so it doesn’t always have to be a grey and monotone material. You can also throw other additives in to add little bits of sparkle here and there too. And of course… you can paint a rendered concrete wall. If you go down this route, then a smooth rendered finish is probably what you are after. It is possible to paint over texture render, but just make sure your render is fully dry before painting it. The right rendering tools for the job When using concrete render, you need the right rendering equipment or you won’t get the look you want. Whether you are a professional tradesperson working for an office fit out company or a DIY enthusiast, we have a large range of concrete rendering tools and supplies available to purchase. Ideally, you’ll have a wire brush and a stiff broom which will help you to fully prepare the masonry you’ll be applying the new render to. It needs to be as clean as possible before you begin. You will also need a suitable container for your mixture. Smaller walls may just need a large bucket, but for bigger ones a deep wheelbarrow and a mixing shovel might be easier. A trowel is the tool you will need to apply your render by hand, but a large section of straight wood is also a requirement so that you can keep each layer as flat and even as possible. In addition, you will need a metal hawk, the same sort of tool that professional plasterers use, to smooth over your render. The final item that will come in handy is a sponge trowel. This can remove excess render by moving in gentle, circular motions. Adding the Wow Factor to Your Home Concrete walls make a bold statement. If your home has a mixture of different materials – woodwork, masonry and plasterboard – a concrete render feature can really add the wow factor. The unifying nature of concrete render, even if you choose to paint it, will provide a more architecturally satisfying appearance in your home. Of course, once it is up, no one will ever know what lies beneath and most rendered walls look like they are solid concrete so you get a strong visual design that makes your whole home appear more grand. Concrete Interior Render in Modern Office Spaces Bear in mind that it is not just homes that will look good with either a patterned wall formed from concrete render or a smooth and minimalist one from undecorated cement. After all, business premises can also benefit from the same sort of finishes following a commercial fit out. And business often lead the way with new innovative designs and styles! One of the best things about using concrete to render interior walls in workplaces is that it provides such a modern look. All over the world, concrete is an on-trend material that people are enjoying as something that is seen as cool. Polished concrete floors,

No matter your trade, there’s no doubt that you have come across diamond blades cutting construction material on your worksite. And for speed and versatility, it is no wonder… Diamond blades are useful for cutting quickly and cleanly through reinforced materials like bricks, blocks, walls, glass, tiles and concrete. This has made them an incredibly popular choice in the construction industry. But have you ever wondered why some blades last longer than others? Are you sick of replacing blades all the time? What if changing one thing could transform your job? This sounds like something that could never happen. However, everything changes when you change blades. The type of blade you use in your tools makes a huge difference in how the job gets done. And these blades don’t come cheap, so you need to know what you’re working with, and how to choose the best one for the task at hand. BUT it can be hard to know where to start – there are so many different kinds of blades and tools available, and each one serves a different purpose. Homeowners and construction professionals often use traditional saw blades or abrasive blades. Unfortunately, these are easily damaged and must often be replaced. You can avoid this by switching to diamond blades. In this handy guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about diamond blade tools. Keep reading to learn more! What Are Diamond Blades? Diamond blades are part of a larger family of diamond cutting tools. Diamond cutting tools have a steel drill tube or core, and a cutting edge that contains diamond pieces. Common diamond cutting tools include diamond drills, diamond blades, diamond grinding tools and polycrystalline diamond (PCD cutting tools). Do Diamond blades have real diamonds? Despite the name, the blades are not made fully of diamonds. They are made of powdered metal laid over a core of steel that has been mixed with diamond crystals. These aren’t the type of diamonds you’d find in jewellery, they are synthetic diamonds made with a high-temperature, high-pressure synthesis process. The concentration and quality of the diamonds within each segment has a vital role on the way the tool performs. This diamond tipped cutting edge allows for the highest efficiency while cutting materials. The final result is more than just another tool. It is an investment in the quality of every single job that you work on. But, use the wrong blade for the material and you will grind your blade dull. Keep reading to discover all of the benefits of using these blades and how to make sure you are using the right ones. What’s the difference between a Steel Saw blade and a Diamond Saw Blade? While a standard steel saw blade has teeth to slice through softer materials like wood, Diamond blades cut dense, hard materials that are too tough for wood and metal saw blades. But, they are not all created equal. Just as there are different wood saw blades for soft or hardwood, diamond blades come designed for a range of uses. In order for any blade to cut through the material, it must be made from a substance that is harder than material to be cut. Diamonds are one of the strongest natural substances known to exist on earth. Steel, stone and concrete are some of the toughest materials available and require some tougher-than-normal saw blades to cut through them. Diamond saw blades are an incredibly useful tool for cutting through materials, and are extensively used for precise and heavy-duty cutting. On the job site they are regularly used for cutting through reinforced materials like bricks, blocks, walls and concrete. Their strength allows for a more effective, smoother cut than other blades. This has made them an incredibly popular advancement in the construction industry. Can you use a diamond blade on an angle grinder? You can use a smaller diamond blades on an angle grinder. Angle grinders are small portable tools that are great for precision work on concrete. Because diamond blades are more resistant to heat and friction than many other blades, they are a great choice for angle grinders which are hardy and powerful little tools. Can you use a diamond blade on a circular saw? You can use a diamond blade on a circular saw, but as these are smaller tools, they wouldn’t be the best choice when cutting thick layers of hard material like stone or concrete. A demo saw would be a better choice for diamond blades. Demo saws are more powerful and bigger, so they won’t die half way through the job and they ca hold big enough blades to cut deep. Because diamonds are incredibly hard and have a high melting point, diamond tools are regularly used within the construction industry where hard materials need to be cut – the size of the tool needs to match the size of the job. We recommend that demo saws are the better tool choice for diamond blades. They are the blade of choice for bricklayers, concreters, landscapers and for civil construction. Save Money Let’s be honest upfront. Diamond blades are going to cost you more money than traditional saw or abrasive blades. Despite the extra cost, diamond blades will save you money in the long term. This is because they last longer than most other blades. Additionally, they can be used for multiple different purposes. This lets you buy a single tool for multiple indoor and outdoor projects instead of buying multiple tools. Finally, they are an investment in quality. Buying longer-lasting tools means having to replace them less frequently. And for homeowners and professionals alike, time really is money! Save Time These blades typically offer a better speed than you get with traditional abrasive cutting discs. This is because they can deal with heat better and have better debris removal. Faster cutting speed will add up when you look at the amount of time you  spend cutting. The math is simple: saving time on every single cut

Each summer in Australia, communities around the country are impacted by bushfire and wildfire. Threatening people’s lives, properties, their way of life, and all the wildlife that is destroyed. Often these fires occur in state forests, which consist of dense eucalyptus trees and thick undergrowth. Unfortunately, if a fire starts in there and gets out of control, it is very hard and many times impossible for humans to put it out. While a fire may be many kilometers away from your house, you may still be acutely aware of it’s dooming presence.  On some days the sky can actually turn a dark orange as the sun desperately seeks to shine through the smoke. And the sky turns into a thick haze of blurry smoke, preventing you from seeing meters ahead of you.  When this happens you realise how leaky your house is. With the wildfire smoke finding any gaps, and sneaking in. While you appreciate that this is a much lesser issue than what the communities on the front line are dealing with.  You wonder, what can I do to reduce this? What is the best way of dealing with smoke in your home? How can you get rid of bushfire smoke from the house? Is smoky air dangerous? Smoky air from a bush fire causes air pollution and contaminates the air we breathe. Since bush fire smoke is a combination of different-sized particles, water vapour and poisonous gases, too much is harmful to your health. Microscopic particles that are smaller than 2.5 micrometres can cross into the blood stream, creating inflammation make you sick. Does Bushfire smoke affect us all equally? Smoky air from wildfires is most dangerous to the elderly, babies and young children, and people with heart or lung conditions. If members of your household fall into any of these categories, you really should take as many measures that you can to reduce your exposure to the smoke haze. Why are the elderly more vulnerable to smoky air? In general older people are more likely to have chronic age-related diseases, be on multiple medications, and have weaker immune systems. According to a US study on bushfire smoke and the elderly, they found that compared to older men, older women across all races are most likely to be admitted to hospital due to smoky air from wild fires. Is bushfire smoke bad for babies? Babies and young children are more vulnerable to smoky air than adults as their airways are still developing. They also breathe much faster than older children and adults therefore proportionally breathing more air in. The other reason they are more effected is that particles fall onto surfaces and babies are on floors etc closer to the resting particles. How do you deal with smoky air from wildfires? The most important thing with smoke haze is to avoid exposure to it. This is done by preventing it from entering your home or going outside. Most importantly, STAY INDOORS WITH YOUR WINDOWS AND DOORS SHUT. Do not use your bathroom or kitchen extraction fan. These are ventilation systems that are designed to exchange indoor air for outdoor air. These create a vacuum and all air removed from your home has to be replaced. This will more rapidly suck air from the outside in through all the little cracks in your home bringing more smoky air inside. Tape up your windows Stand near your windows and see if you can feel any leaks. Use tape to cover these up. Some tapes like masking tape or painters tape are less likely to harm paintwork. But if allowed to age for more than a few weeks they can dry out and be hard to remove (a hairdryer can help soften the tape) but its best to redo the tape every couple of weeks if the smoke is sticking around. Seal your doors. Weather seals are inexpensive and can be left there after the smoke leaves to give you the added benefit of preventing winter draughts. If the smoke is already upon you, it is better to wait until it passes as applying a weather seal means opening the door. You can tape your doors up (this will mean you can’t use them). Similar to your windows use the most paint friendly tape you have on hand, and don’t leave it there for weeks to age. Another easy tip is the lay wet towels along the base of the door. The gap at the bottom is usually the largest door gap. A wet towel does a better job of trapping particles than a dry one. Turn off and cover your evaporative cooler An evaporative cooler brings in air from the outside, so you need to turn it off and make sure all the cooling vents in your ceiling are closed. If you are still concerned that smoke is still coming through your evaporative units vent system. You can: Note: it is a good idea to stick a note on the control panel to remind you to and family members remove any covers before turning the unit on again How to get bushfire smoke out of house? So you realised too late, or the kids left the door open. What ever the reason, you might find your house full of smoke. Then you are left wondering how to reduce smoky air in the house. Do air conditioners filter out smoke? If you have an air conditioner (not an evaporative cooler), you can turn it on. It will circulate the air, and will pick up particles in its filter. Air conditioners are heat exchangers and air recyclers. This means that heat in your air is absorbed and pushed outside – not the air itself. The air conditioner works on the air that is inside your house already. So outdoor air is not being pulled into your home, leaving the smog outside. Do humidifiers help with smoke? Humidifiers may make your house more comfortable by adding moisture to the air therefore keeping your noise and mouth moist. But