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You are ready to mow your lawn, you start your lawnmower, and it stops for a few seconds later, or it works with a couple of minutes and dies. You restart it and it stops again, and you sigh… it’s one of those days. If your lawnmower keeps stopping it might be as simples as checking your fuel cap is not clogged, changing your sparkplug, cleaning your airfilter or unblocking your muffler. But it can sometimes be something more complex like a damaged carburettor and you need a professional to service it. Many of these lawnmower problems are easy to troubleshoot, diagnose and fix. If you have time, patience, and some mechanical skills, you can do it yourself. Don’t worry! Below you will find a list of the most common problems to help you with your lawn mower troubleshooting. Why does my lawn mower keep stopping? Your lawn mower might keep shutting off because as something simple as something is clogged up, you need a new spark plug, or you need to add new fuel. Of course, the first thing you should look at is your owners manual. As it contains information unique to your lawnmower. But this guide goes through some of the most common basic troubleshooting steps from the easiest to the worst problems. The idea is for you to use it as a guide to check your lawnmower problems and at the same time as a checklist to troubleshoot your lawnmower. 1. Check if your lawnmower has a clogged fuel cap vent If your lawn mower keeps cutting out, check you fuel cap. Fuel caps have one or more small vents to let the air in as the fuel level is going down inside the fuel tank. This air compensates the inner pressure with the outside pressure and lets the fuel flow. If the fuel cap is clogged, fuel will be unable to reach the engine, making it stop. One quick way to test your lawnmower’s fuel cap is to loosen it, making sure that air is allowed into the tank. Now turn on your lawnmower. If it keeps running, the problem is the fuel cap. You can try to clean it or just replace it. 2. Grass blockage can cause your mower to stop – Check the lower end of your mower If your lawnmower is not very powerful, a build-up of grass clippings underneath the mower can make it difficult to mow and ultimately cause your mower to stop. Carefully inspect the underside of your lawnmower and check for clipping build-ups. Try to remove all lumps of grass, clean the area and try again. You can also try to adjust the cutting height to a higher setting to reduce problems with grass build up. 3. Blunt blades and long grass can make your lawn mower stop Blunt, unsharpened or damaged blades could also cause the lawn mower shut off while mowing. This is because blunt blades will need more power to cut through the same amount of grass as sharp blades. If the blades are not sharp enough, they will tear the grass instead of cutting it. This grass could stick to the blades, preventing the correct functioning of the machine. 4. An exhaust blockage can cause lawn mower problems This is a long shot but it’s very easy to check. Inspect your mower’s exhaust pipe and muffler. If it’s clogged with dirt or debris, the exhaust fumes won’t be able to leave the engine freely and will stop the engine. Wasp nests are more common than you think! 5. Your lawnmower problem could be due to leaking oil If your lawnmower’s oil level is low, it’s dangerous to your lawnmower’s engine. It could also be the reason why your lawnmower keeps stalling out. Before further testing, top your mower’s engine oil according to the user’s manual, don’t overfill it and try again. Your lawnmower should always run with the right amount of oil. Once you know there is the right amount in there, you need to look for what part of the engine is leaking. Unfortunately, there are a few places where the leak could be coming from, and it could be coming from more than one spot! To start to work out where the leak is coming from, you need to wipe the whole engine over with a rag and a brush to get rid of any oil and dirt that has built up on the outside. Once it is clean, it make it easier for you to see what is going on. Then, run the engine for a few minutes as often seals will only leak during use or immediately after. If there are leaks, hopefully this will help you identify them. The most obvious thing to check with a lawnmower leak is whether the seals, o-rings and gaskets are worn. The first one to check is the lower bearing ring seal (aka oil seal). This is underneath the engine and the crankshaft that spines the mower blade goes through it. If the lower bearing ring seal is leaking, then you will find an oil leak directly underneath your engine. If your valve gasket needs replacing you might see a build up of oil around the valve chamber where the cover attaches. To work out if that is the source of your leak, clean it up, and run the engine for a few minutes. Then if you see oil appearing again in that area, then you probably have found the culprit! 6. Too much oil can cause a lawn mower to stall Excess of oil in your mower’s oil reservoir may drown the engine and make it stop. If there is too much oil in your mower’s reservoir, you are probably going to see that your mower is smoking, leaking oil, or even blowing blue smoke. In this case, blue smoke coming out of the engine is a result of the excessive oil burnt by the engine. If you realize that

Most people dream of living in a luxurious home filled with comfort, style, and peace, especially in rural surroundings. Planning to build your dream countryside home? This article offers essential tips and guidance to help you begin your journey the right way. Building a house in a rural area costs upwards from $60,000 AUD extra than the equivalent suburban house. Additional costs include connecting to power and data, installing water tanks and pumps, and setting up a reliable septic system. Also, most rural properties have longer drive ways and fence lines than suburban properties. In this article, I’ll share extra expenses I encountered and lessons I learned while building my rural residential dream home. How much does it cost to build a house in rural area? With cities becoming crowded and block sizes shrinking, more people are drawn to the space and peace of rural living. Use cost per square meter when estimating home building costs, as total prices vary due to different house sizes. According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics, the average construction cost in 2020 was $1,393.55 per square meter. To set a realistic budget based on your home’s specifications, consider the following: However, these figures exclude additional expenses you’ll face when building a home in a rural area, so plan accordingly. In suburban developments, many services—like water connections, roads, electricity, and data—are already provided or pre-planned by the developer. In contrast, rural builds often require you to arrange and pay for: These extra costs can significantly increase your overall build budget, so it’s essential to factor them in from the beginning. When building a rural home, limited infrastructure means even the basics can become costly. Expect to spend at least $60,000 AUD more than a suburban build. This is just a starting point—it depends on factors like: This article covers key rural steps and considerations to help you, whether buying land or already owning a rural property. Connecting to Power Supply This is usually the biggest expense, and the decisions you make here can significantly impact the total cost of building. Before making an offer on rural land, learn about power poles—unless you’re planning to go completely off the grid. Not all power poles are equal, so you must identify one that already has a transformer installed for proper connection. The power poles with a silver bucket on them is usually a power pole with a transformer. You can’t connect to the other power poles. Find the closest transformer to your block for connection, or alternatively, purchase and install a transformer on a nearby pole. To install a transformer on its own you are looking at approximately $25,000. The further away your house is from the transformer, the more power poles you’ll need, the more expensive it is. You’ll need to contact the local energy provider and ask a technician how much power is available in that transformer. Transformers do not have endless power capacity. If that transformer’s power supply is fully allocated to neighbours, you’ll be responsible for the cost of a larger transformer. On top of that you need to get the power from the transformer to your house. I contacted Gavin Gasnier from Gasniers Electrical to get an up-to-date estimate on average electrical connection costs. As with all the considerations in this blog post, there are huge variances depending on your property. But as a general guidance, Gavin said, “For a basic rural job, where you connect to a pole with an existing transformer and the edge of your property is within 50-100m of the power pole, it will cost approximately $33,000 inc GST. But you also need to consider that you need to install a meter box and run a low voltage power line to your house, which will also cost upwards from $10,000.” Another factor to consider is whether the transformer is on your side of any asphalt road. If the transformer is across the road, check council rules as some don’t allow overhead powerlines to cross roads. This means you’ll face extra costs for boring an underground trench beneath the road to bring power to your property. Lastly, depending on your power needs, cable sizes vary, and each type supports different loads at different price points. Going Off Grid When you look at the costs associated with power supply it can be tempting to go off grid. With the increasing technology around solar panels and battery storage, off-grid houses are on the rise. In the past people used to fear that an off-grid house would negatively affect property value prices. When done right, off-grid properties are more appealing to buyers due to rising energy costs and growing environmental concerns. But while the costs of solar panels, wind turbines and battery storage etc. are all reducing. Any choices you make here are an additional cost that you would not incur in a suburban build. Water Supply and Pumps Unlike in town, rural homes require you to establish and manage your own water supply instead of simple builder connections. This could be in the form of rainwater tanks, bore water, or dam water. Consider water quality, how much you need, household size, and whether drinking and garden water supplies will be kept separate. Rain water is what most people choose to have on their rural property for drinking. Some people connect a pump to a dam, or install a bore for gardens. Your choices affect tank size required to ensure your family has reliable water supply, even during extended periods of drought. Our setup consists of two 45,000-liter poly rainwater tanks used exclusively for drinking water storage and household consumption. We also installed a bore system to supply water efficiently for garden irrigation and landscaping purposes. As per council requirements, a 25,000-liter fire water tank with firefighting fittings was installed, though it remains unused. This fire water tank stays full at all times, serving solely as a compliance measure without being actively used. The price of the tanks alone are approximately

If you’re unsure which chainsaw chain to use, consider the task type, wood hardness, and your chainsaw’s specifications. We’re going to talk about one of the most important of them today – how fast the chain cuts. But which chain cuts fastest and which should you choose? The fastest cutting chainsaw chain is either a full chisel or a chisel skip chain. The full chisel offers the fastest and most aggressive cutting action for chainsaw bars that are 24” or less. For bars that are longer than 24”, choose a chisel skip chain. But what does that all mean and why is the case? We’ll break it down clearly and provide the key details to help you choose the fastest-cutting chainsaw chain type. Find out more below. Finding the Chainsaw Chain That Cuts the Fastest? As mentioned, you’ll need a full chisel or chisel skip chain depending on your chainsaw’s size and power. These chains deliver fast, aggressive cuts, making them perfect for tough materials with less resistance and greater cutting speed overall. There are several other important factors to consider when choosing a chainsaw chain that best meets your specific cutting needs. Some examples of those are as follows: Full Chisel Chains for Fast Cutting A full chisel chain features square-cornered teeth and is widely recognized as the fastest cutting blade shape available today. Also called a standard chisel chain, it has more teeth than others, offering speed but needing frequent sharpening over time. The squared shape of the teeth provides a cut that’s fast and clean on most bars under 24 inches. If you’re looking to cut wood, particularly softwood, quickly and easily, it’s generally considered that the full chisel chain is the one that you should be working with. The high quantity of teeth on the chain ensures the cut remains smooth and clean through, creating a finish you’re sure to be happy with. How Does the Speed of a Chisel Skip Chain Differ? We mentioned that depending on the size of the chainsaw bar’s length, you might need to use a chisel skip chain rather than a full chisel chain. So how are the two different? They have significantly less teeth than a full chisel chain. And that’s why they’re suited to chainsaws with longer bars. They’re used for taking on bigger tasks, such as tree felling. That extra space in between the teeth makes it possible for the chain to carry the wood chips that are created before releasing them. This prevents to wood chips from getting stuck inside the wood you are cutting. It stops them from getting in the way, slowing down the cut by generating a whole lot of saw dust and not wood chips. So, for big wide cuts, it is a good idea to use a skip or semi chain with chisel teeth. You wouldn’t use a skip chain on a small log, as there just are not enough teeth in the small wood at the any one time. This would result in a very rough cut and a chainsaw that is hard to handle. Is a Faster Chain Also More Aggressive? When we talk about a chain cutting a piece of wood quickly and offering a fast performance, we’re also talking about the chainsaw’s aggression. For a chainsaw to perform aggressively, it necessarily needs to also cut quickly. That’s why these terms are often used interchangeably by some. As we’ve discussed, full chisel chains are the fastest cutting chains in most applications, and they’re best used in bars under 24” in length. There are therefore the most aggressive solution, so whether you’re looking for an aggressive chain or a fast-cutting chain, the answer will be the same. Chisel chains are capable of long, deep cuts thanks to their speed and aggression. But they are not for everyone. A chisel chain is more dangerous than other chain types such as a semi chisel chain, so if you have not had the appropriate training, a chisel chain may not be for you. How Does Your Chainsaw Chain Pitch Affect Speed? Another thing you might be wondering about is the pitch of the chainsaw. How important is this when it comes to the speed and performance of your chainsaw chain? Of course, if you already have a chainsaw and you’re simply looking for a new chain, this won’t be relevant because you’ll just use what you already have. But if you’re considering new options and you want to know which chainsaw pitch is going to help you achieve the fastest cuts, you’ll probably want to look at a .404 chain pitch. It’s a large, fast and aggressive pitch, offering what you’re more than likely looking for here. Most importantly, only use chains that suit the pitch of your chainsaw. Is it Safe to Use a Fast Chainsaw Chain? Safety is always an important factor to consider when choosing chains and handling chainsaws, as I’m sure you already know. It’s also true that aggressive and very fast chainsaw chains are often not recommended to people who have had any or much experience using a chainsaw. Although they are still safe, there are more risks associated with them. The biggest risk of all that comes with using a very fast cutting chainsaw chain like a chisel chain is kickback. Kickback happens when the chainsaw isn’t handled properly and it can be very dangerous. That’s why training and experience is recommended before using a chain. Finding the Right Chainsaw and Chain Choosing the right chain from the right can be tough due to the wealth of options out there. Be sure to take a look at the range of products currently offered by Husqvarna if you’re looking for a good place to start. Their chainsaws are easy to use, safe and reliable. There are lots of things to think about and weigh up when choosing a new chain for your chainsaw. Be sure to take into account the information and help outlined above as

A chainsaw is an incredibly powerful tool used to cut through wood as well as other materials. However, you may on occasion be experiencing what’s called a “dull chainsaw”. There are numerous reasons why your chainsaw may dull with the issues ranging from operator error to machinery breakdown. If your chainsaw dulls quickly, check cutting angle, raker depth, and ensure the chain is installed in the correct direction. Dirty or embedded wood can strain your chainsaw, making it work harder and dull the chain during normal cutting operations. What’s The Reason For Your Chainsaw Dulling? When a chainsaw contacts the material, it should cut smoothly with minimal extra force applied by the operator during use. If you’re pushing hard to cut, your chainsaw is likely dull and not sharp enough for proper cutting performance. Another surefire way to notice dull chainsaw is the sawdust it’s giving off during cutting. When cutting against the grain of the wood (cross-cutting), the sawdust should be minute and weightless. If you’re experiencing chunkier strands then this is a good sign that your chainsaw is dulling. It’s never a good sign if your chainsaw smokes — it’s a clear indication the chain is becoming dull or damaged. And finally, if you realise your wood is cut unevenly, this could be another sign of a dull chainsaw. With the teeth uneven, and blunt, the final cut will look poor at best. Here we look into the possibilities as to why your chainsaw dulls so fast. Is Your Chainsaw Cutting At The Right Angle? Cutting your wood at too steep an angle is a primary reason your chainsaw may become dull. It puts unnecessary strain on the chain and reduces cutting efficiency over time. Striking the ground while cutting from the top down can also cause serious damage to your chainsaw. Always maintain proper control and positioning to protect both the chain and the tool. Overbucking, also called overcutting by some, is the most commonly used and safest cutting method when operating a chainsaw. The operator cuts downward through horizontally laid material, meaning the chainsaw moves from top to bottom during the cutting process. Underbucking is the reverse to overbucking, and again, is one of the most common techniques when it comes to cutting. The chainsaw cuts upward through horizontal material using a pulling motion as it moves toward you during the cutting operation. By handling the chainsaw correctly, you are less likely to dull your chainsaw chain. We recommend ensuring your cuts are angled correctly to prevent dulling and reduce the risk of injury during chainsaw use. Are Your Rakers Too High? Having the rakers on your chainsaw installed too high can lead to an inadequate performance when using your chainsaw. This is why it’s important to make sure that the rakers are installed correctly. High rakers, also known as depth gauges or riders, create excess dust and slow down cutting, reducing chainsaw efficiency. They require more effort to cut, heat the chain, and may cause damage to both the chain and the saw. When set to the correct height, rakers produce small chips, making cutting easier and preventing damage to your chainsaw. Check Chainsaw Chain Is Not On Backwards If the chainsaw chain is installed backwards, you’ll quickly notice it takes much more effort to cut through the material. This could make you think that your chainsaw is dull. If cutting feels difficult, stop and check the chain—forcing it can lead to damage or even cause personal injury. When installing a new chainsaw chain, always check which direction the cutting edge is facing before securing it in place. These should be pointing away from the engine and towards the material you’re going to be cutting. Since the chainsaw rotates clockwise, the cutting edge should face the same direction to cut through material effectively. Dirt Causes A Chainsaw To Dull Cutting through wood that’s dirty can sometimes dull a chainsaw and there’s two factors attributed to dirt. We touched on the first above, the angle of the cut. If you’re cutting through logs and your angle of approach is too steep, a simple cut through could nick dirt or even worse, rocks on the floor causing your chainsaw to jerk, thus dulling. But, if directly cutting into a tree that’s recently felled, or one you are cutting into, these often hollow bodies can contain leaf litter and dirt which can cause your chainsaw to dull. In the unlikely event that you feel your chainsaw jerking, or struggling to cut through with ease, dulling may have already begun to take effect. Is it my technique, or my equipment? Well, that’s completely up to you to go away and analyse however, it may be possible that there isn’t one single explanation for your chainsaw dulling but more an accumulation of problems. We must remind you to always be careful and work safely when operating such a powerful machine and to wear the correct protective equipment at all times. Keeping control and a strong, steady grip at all times with fingers and thumbs completely wrapping around the handles whilst also maintaining balance by keeping it as close to the body as possible. As you can see, there are a lot of things that you need to think about when you are troubleshooting why your chain is dulling fast. We actually have a detailed guide called Different Types of Chainsaw Chains and it is a great read on all the different things you should consider when choosing a chain! And when you are ready to get yourself a new chain, we have you covered as we have plenty of chainsaw chains for sale. If you are up for a new chainsaw, check out our Canberra Mowers shop in Mitchell. We stock the latest Husqvarna chainsaws in Canberra for both professional and home users.

Native plants are perfect to grow in Aussie gardens; they’re ready-built to thrive in our climate and environment. Native Australian plants are excellent choices for any garden, and there’s a wide variety available to cultivate. Of course, like all other plants, there’s plenty that goes into native plant care, including pruning, watering — and fertilising. To make a homemade fertiliser for native plants, DIY organic mulch or compost is best. You can create homemade mulch from low-phosphorus organic matter such as pine bark or blood meal, or use manure compost or clippings from street trees. Just check the phosphorus requirements of your plants first. So now — why does phosphorus matter, how does it affect native plant fertilisers, and how do you fertilise your native plant garden? Special Considerations for Homemade Native Plant Fertiliser The common belief that native plants shouldn’t be fertilised comes from the fact that they naturally thrived in low-nutrient soils — particularly, soil low in phosphorus. But according to the Australian Native Plants Society (ANPSA), it’s perfectly fine to apply general purpose fertiliser to many native plants in slow-release form. This allows for a more gradual release of nutrients into the soil and lets your plant adjust accordingly. The most notable exception to this is Proteaceae plants (such as banksia, grevillea, hakea, and waratah), which have developed specialised roots called “proteids”. These roots spread out in a fine mass of small “rootlets” which allow the plant to absorb nourishment from nutrient-deficient soil. Fertilising using general purpose products could end up causing the plant to take in excess nutrients, which is toxic to its development. Acacias, bossiaeas, and petrophiles are also sensitive to phosphorus. ANPSA recommends you use low-phosphorus fertilisers (with a nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium ratio of 10:3:6, or a ≤3% of phosphorus) for more sensitive species. Otherwise, regular fertiliser (that with an N:P:K ratio of 12:14:10) is safe to use — again, just control the release! How To Create Homemade Mulch Mulch is an excellent fertiliser to use on native plants since it breaks down slowly over time, gradually releasing nutrients into the soil. When using organic matter such as leaves and bark, try not to shred too fine — the larger the chunks, the slower they’ll break down. To make homemade garden mulch, you’ll need: NOTE: Leaves and grass clippings are best taken after mowing your lawn so they’re roughly shredded. You can mow the lawn yourself with a bag attachment, or get a professional mowing service to mow and collect the material for you! FOR GRASS AND LEAF MULCH: Collect grass clippings and raked leaves into a pile in a corner of your garden. Check for any diseased or moulding leaves and remove them. Then run them over with a lawn mower a few times to shred them and mix them up. You can either layer the shredded clippings around your native plants as-is, or compost them in a bin. Take note: if you go the bin way, you’ll have to wait a few months for your mulch to be ready. Try mowing ahead of winter so that your mulch is ready for mid-spring! FOR BARK MULCH: Pine bark is particularly good for native plants since it’s low in phosphorus, but you can use most other kinds of wood too. Take your bark and chips, and run them through a wood chipper to break them down further. Don’t shred too fine, since that’ll cause it to break down faster. Then layer the bark around your plants and let it work! It’s important not to use mushroom-based compost or mulch — this could raise soil pH, which is detrimental to native plants. Using Blood Meal Fertiliser It’s important to use blood meal, not bone — bone meal fertiliser is high in phosphorus, which your plants won’t really need. This is a tricky fertiliser to DIY, so you may be better off purchasing a commercial form. But if you’re willing to try on your own, boil the blood while stirring constantly. When the moisture has reduced around 10–12%, and the mixture is considerably thicker, spread it out on a clean surface. Then dry either out in the sun or in an oven. Blood meal fertiliser is also water soluble, so you can dissolve it in water and mix it in your compost, too. Avoid excessive application of this fertiliser since it’s high in nitrogen — another nutrient that native plants don’t need too much of! Is Chicken Manure Good For Native Plants? Yes and no. Of all manure fertilisers, chicken manure has the highest percentage of phosphorus, so it’s not suitable for native plants that are sensitive to that particular mineral. Avoid using poultry manure-based fertiliser on native Proteaceae plants or acacias. Otherwise, you can either get a manure pellet fertiliser specially formulated for native plants, or make some manure tea on your own. (Yep, that’s what it’s called.) How To Make Homemade Manure Fertiliser Ready to get down and dirty? DIY manure fertiliser also works well for native plants. Many commercial manufacturers use poultry manure as a base for their fertilisers, but you can opt for pig, horse, or cow manure to lower the phosphorus content. In a large container, mix your manure with water in a ratio of one part manure, two parts water (or ⅓ manure, ⅔ water). Let it ‘steep’ for a day or two, while stirring occasionally. When it’s done steeping, let the solid particles settle at the bottom so it’s easier to filter them out. You can strain the mixture into another container, or just grab a bucket as needed. Alternatively, you can DIY a ‘tea bag’ with some cheesecloth or an old pillowcase. Fill the makeshift ‘bag’ with the same ratio of manure (one part manure to two parts water) and steep it in water. Then you can lift the bag out, and even recycle the steeped manure as compost or additional fertiliser! How To Fertilise Australian Native Plants When applying organic matter such as compost and mulch to native

An aggressive chainsaw chain is one that cuts through wood quickly. Aggressive chains are generally those that function a lot faster than others by cutting through wood quickly.. Usually left to professionals as they are not as safe due to a higher risk of kickback. The following list can be used to determine the most aggressive chain: 1. Chain Compilation Often on smaller chainsaws and chainsaw bars, an aggressive chain has more teeth. Lots of teeth can create quick and clean cuts in cuts under 24 inches long. A chain with a full set of teeth is called a Full Compliment chain. This is also known as a Standard Chain sequence. But more teeth does not equal more aggressive in all situations.  More teeth on long bar making long deep cuts can result in a slower less aggressive cut. This is because there is limited opportunity for wood savings to be expelled from within the cut. A Skip Compilation chain would be a more aggressive chain for this type of cutting. Skip Chains have less teeth, produce rougher cuts. Because they have gaps where teeth are skipped, wood shavings can travel out of the cut along the gaps in the chain. The more efficient removal of wood shaving creates less drag and a more efficient cut. 2. Type of Teeth The type of teeth is also a huge determining factor in how aggressive a chainsaw is. Full chisel teeth are generally your best option when you are looking for an aggressive chainsaw chain. These teeth work very fast and hard, and can cut through whatever you need to in a matter of moments. That’s really what we mean by a chain being truly aggressive. 3. Chain Pitch The pitch is dictated by your chainsaw, so unless you are researching to buy a new chainsaw you are stuck with what your chainsaw takes. But for those who are researching to buy, the larger pitch sizes equal larger and heavier chain saw chains. So when talking about what makes a chainsaw chain aggressive, the pitch is very important. For large scale timber cutting, the .404 pitch is on the most aggressive chains for heavy duty work. 4. Chainsaw Power Speed is one very important factor in aggressiveness. Not only do you need to consider the power of your actual chainsaw, but also how efficient a cut your chainsaw chain produces. Some chainsaws will never be truly aggressive if their motor is small and they just don’t have the grunt. If you want to learn more, check out our guide on ‘What Is The Most Aggressive Chainsaw Chain?’ In this guide, we go through each of the items in this list in detail. We also provide aggressive chainsaw chain recommendations based on saw size and the material being cut. Want to learn more generally about Chainsaw Chains? Our Different Types of Chainsaw Chain Guide talks about everything you need to know.

We’ve all been there, it’s a cold winter’s night, you get in from work and all you want is a log fire. But, you’ve burnt through all your firewood – off to the splitter you go. Unfortunately, you’ve been ignoring that niggling question “why is my log splitter running slow” – and now it’s at a snail’s pace. Not ideal. So, let’s not ignore it anymore! In this guide I’ll run you through our top troubleshooting tips to get you splitting in seconds. A slow log splitter is often caused by issues with the power supply, hydraulics, ram, fan, pump or cylinder. Checking each element one-by-one can help you identify the cause of the problem. The speed of a log-splitter cycle ranges from 3-5 seconds up to 30 seconds, depending on age and type of log splitter. Slow Logsplitter? Quick Checklist Read on for a detailed guide as we walk you through each point. Why is my wood splitter not working? The first thing we’ve got to consider is what your log splitter runs on, firstly, let’s cover petrol log splitters as they usually require the most maintenance. If your splitter isn’t starting or won’t stay running – maintenance may fix this. Ensure your engine has the right amounts of engine oil and gas, and be sure to not over or underfill it. Likewise, if your log splitter spends a lot of time in storage be sure to drain it of fluids; if they’re left in for long periods of time it can damage the inner workings of the machine. Moreover, keep checking your spark plug and cleaning/changing the air filter. Troubleshooting tips for electric and hydraulic splitters We’ve covered petrol, so now let’s move onto electric log splitters. Want to diagnose it quickly? Check the power source! This is quite often the root of the problem, whether it’s a blown fuse or a clink in the cable. Likewise, once you eliminate these – check your extension cable – this could be the issue. Ensure any extension cable is up to the job and completely unwound for optimal performance. Now that we’ve covered those, it’s time to move onto manual hydraulic splitters. As you are the one who’s doing the heavy lifting – there’s less that can go wrong. If you find that the pedal or the rod jams or struggles to run – simply grease them up. If there are issues with hydraulics, they’re easy to locate. Once pinpointed get in touch with your manufacturer who can assist further. Why does my log splitter bog down under pressure? If you find that your log splitter is losing pressure, there are a few things a few troubleshooting steps you can take. Firstly, run through some general maintenance checks, is the fan on the motor spinning? If you can’t effortlessly spin it – it may have a blockage. If you’ve checked this and it’s all good, then check the handles or anywhere else that could become loose. It may seem simple, but if the handle is loose it prevents the lever from being fully pushed down. Likewise, it may seem silly, but ensuring the machine is pointing uphill or level will help it distribute power; facing downhill puts stress on the machine. Furthermore, it could be that there is air trapped within the machine which affects the power. To bleed your machine simply turn the oil-filer plug clockwise and remove the oil filling plug. You can then release the ram and replace the oil filling plug. Why does the ram on my log splitter not return? Always be careful when it comes to the log splitter ram. Firstly, ensure that there aren’t any ram carriage blockages, even something as thin as a hair can cause issues. Likewise, splinters caught underneath, on, or around the blade or pusher could be preventing the ram from fully retracting. Does your splitter have plastic spacers? If so, have they become loose – if so, slot them back in. Grease up the ram and keep an eye out for any build-up of residue or sap – these are easy fixes. Finally, it could be that the ram is bent. If that’s the case, get in touch with where you bought it. How do I know if my log splitter pump is bad If you can feel some pressure when you initiate the machine to split, it would suggest your cylinder is the issue. However, if there’s a lack of pressure there when the gauge is in the output line of your pump – it’ll be a bad pump. So, the next questions is – how do I fix my pump? You need to start the machine as normal, then move the lever into neutral. Then adjust the screw on the side of the pump to increase the pressure. If you’ve got a 2-stage pump, firstly locate the adjustment screw on the back of the gauge (you usually adjust it with a flathead screwdriver). Behind the hydraulic gauge, you’ll find the pressure switch, a wrench will enable you to loosen it and then adjust accordingly. What is a good cycle time for a log splitter? Whether you’re a green beginner or a seasoned pro – it’s important to bear cycle time in mind. A cycle time is the length of time it takes to fully extend, then split the log and return to its start position. If your splitter states a cycle time of 10 seconds, that is the length of time it will take to split the log. Cycle times range from 3-5 seconds up to 30 seconds – depending on age and type of log splitter. What affects cycle time for a log splitter? Again, a number of things can affect the cycle time of your log splitter, the biggest of which is GPM (gallons per minute). Moreover, it’s important to know what type of hydraulic pump you have as this is what pumps the fluid. Cylinders also play an important part, a smaller

As we move from autumn to winter, it’s often recommended to give your lawn one final cut before the cold. Deciding on the best lawn height for winter is crucial. While some people cut their lawns shorter than usual, in certain situations, it may be better to leave them longer. So let’s mow into the question – Is it better to leave your lawn long or short for winter? It is best to leave your grass at a medium height of 2.5 – 3 inches (6 -7 cm) long. Cutting grass too short limits its ability to absorb sunlight and may damage the grass plant’s crown, weakening overall health. Leaving it longer makes the grass susceptible to winter kill, especially if there is frost and snow. Snow can fold long grass blades over causing fungal disease and rot. Let’s swing through points above and cultivate a central solution. How grass grows on its own? The grass blade is basically like the “food producing” part of the grass plant. It captures sunlight to enable photosynthesis, helping the plant create food that supports strong root growth and healthy shoot development. The shorter it is, the less food that will be produced by the plant. However, in winter it’s not that simple, the lawn may be covered by snow and frost from time to time. What happens to the grass in Winter? As a perennial plant, grass stores food for winter as the climate cools in Autumn. It essentially stores carbohydrates in its roots and crown, the part of the grass plant right above the soil right where the leaf blades emerge. Think about it this way, fungi flourishes on damp organic matter with poor aeration. If debris, like leaves, are spread throughout a lawn thinly enough to allow air to properly flow, they will decompose quickly. This doesn’t give fungus a chance to spawn and wreak havoc on our beautiful lawn! Turf studies such as the three conducted by Michigan State University have shown that the best time to prepare for that perfect lawn next spring is not in the Winter, but actually in Autumn. Their research has demonstrated that about 50 kilograms of coin-sized leaves will break down more easily than that of anything larger in a space as little as 100 square metres. Therefore, as most lawn enthusiasts can agree with, it would be more rational to mow the grass down lower in the Autumn. This means that if your lawn mower setting was at three inches in Summer, it is time to reduce it to two inches. In this instance, the difference in inches does matter, folks… But then how do we prevent the grass from scalping with the cold change in temperature? A recommended practice would be to reduce the lawn height at a gradual rate. By reducing it over time in the last couple of mows, it will give the grass a chance to adapt to the shorter height. This new height will lower the risk of matting and allow for better aeration. Therefore, decreasing mold growth and preventing the lawn from rotting in the warmer springtime. How does grass survive in Winter? The grass blade is basically like the “food producing” part of the grass plant. It is in contact with energy from the sun and thus it is the factory in which photosynthesis takes place allowing the plant to produce necessary food (energy) for good root and shoot growth.  The shorter it is, the less food that will be produced by the plant. However, in winter it’s not that simple, the lawn may be covered by snow and frost from time to time. When we answer the question, “HOW DOES GRASS SURVIVE?” above, we didn’t mention that there was an exception for winter because it has its own variations. Remember, the long length is beneficial for food security. Since we may generally agree that nothing in an ecosystem totally is independent, in considering if we should cut grass long or short for winter, we should consider all other seasons. One of the main reasons for leaving some length on your lawn is so it can absorb enough sun rays for food to sustain it for winter. So in effect your lawn is storing carbohydrates for when it needs them. It is the equivalent of saving for a rainy day except that in this instance it’s literally “saving for a snowy day.” Even humans do this. We have reserves of surplus to sustain us through certain seasons. There is no differentiation when it comes to yard maintenance and ensuring it’s done neatly. We must mention that some mammals also store food and hibernate, and it will make sense when you get to the next point where we further expand on how to make sure that you can keep your grass safe in the winter whilst balancing the polar opposites of what makes it survive. Is it worth fertilising grass in winter? It is not enough to know how long or not you should cut your grass for winter if you do not have a backup plan. The best solution for any problem defends us from the multi-variant threats. We have cut the grass a bit shorter than usual, how does it survive? See a lot of animals hibernate, likewise many plants lay low for a long winter sabbatical while their metabolism slows down as they enter more dormant states. Similar to the different seasonal preferences of animals, certain plants continue to thrive in the cold climate. Have a look at the deciduous family of oak and maple trees for example. These species restock their energy reserves in the previous growing season to utilize when the cold front hits. Therefore, despite losing their leaves in autumn and going into shut down mode, these plants are still able to avoid a winter famine. But what does all this have to do with your lawn? Many would have just thought that the grass would put an instant halt