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It can be tricky maintaining a neat and tidy garden, especially if you have trees growing in the middle of your lawn. Trying to mow around trees can make the job more challenging, but it is important to cut grass under trees the right way.  When mowing under trees you have to avoid both the tree trunk and any exposed roots in your lawn.  You may be able to use a mower, but for narrow areas you may be better off with a grass trimmer or hand clippers. First, pick up any debris under the tree. Then cut grass carefully making sure you do not hit the tree or roots at all. If you don’t it could cause you more headaches than the original long grass underneath the tree. Let us guide you in your mowing adventure, and give you a few tips on how to reduce the problem. We’ve covered everything you need to know, read on! How do you mow around tree roots? The main thing is that you don’t want to get close enough to the tree or exposed roots that you touch them with the mower. (That way, both your tree and your mower are safe from damage). Whatever you do, don’t just mow over the roots. This causes damage both to the tree and to your lawnmower.  We will now go through specific strategies on how to mow under trees and while protecting the tree and its roots. Imagine an area around the base of the tree of about 1-1.5 meters (3-5 feet) that you don’t cross. As you reach this imaginary boundary, slow down and take more care.   You can do the same thing for any exposed roots growing in the middle of your yard, away from the tree’s base. In this case, a one-meter perimeter should be ok. Pick up Sticks before Mowing! The first thing you need to do is pick up all sticks and seed pods from underneath the tree.  Trees are excellent for providing shade, creating a relaxing environment, and encouraging birdlife into your yard. They also drop sticks, leaves and seedpods (depending on the species). You’ll want to pick these up off the lawn before mowing, (especially the larger ones) as they can damage your mower if it runs over them.   The dropped branches and seedpods can also be flicked back at your legs and feet at high speed by the mower blades, (and you’ll certainly know about it when it does!), with injuries ranging from a bruise to a cut. It can be easy enough to pick the larger items up by hand, but you may want to use a rake to catch the smaller debris.   Be aware of any low hanging branches too. It’s up to you whether you want to trim them first, or duck underneath them as you mow… just don’t get caught on them! Cutting grass under a tree with a lawnmower If exposed tree roots are not raised too far above the lawn surface and you have an adjustable height mower, the easiest thing is to raise the height of your mower. But you need to be careful here, and really make sure the lawnmower will clear the roots.  If you have an adjustable height mower, then when you get close to the tree you can raise the height of your lawn mower. For bigger spaces, you can also get a zero-turn mower to make the job more manageable, as it has greater manoeuvrability in tight corners.  Using a string trimmer grass around a tree When trying to cut grass around obstacles and in pokey little areas many people reach for a string trimmer. You might know this as a whipper snipper! But you really need to proceed with caution and go slow. The nylon cord is able to cut the bark and damage the tree so really you don’t want to go too close. Just use your string trimmer to get ‘close enough’ to the tree trunk,  or use it to access the areas in between surface tree roots leaving some long grass closest to the bark. I need to emphasise how important it is not to get too close to the tree with a whipper snipper. If you go around the trunk and hit the bark, you are likely to end up ring barking the tree. The bark is the passageway for all nutrients to get from the roots to the top of the tree. If you cut the bark all the way around the tree, then you can say goodbye to your tree, as it will die.  Finish off the job with Hand Shears If you do need to trim grass right up to the base of the trees, or over exposed roots, use a pair of hand shears. It’s handy to have an outdoor pillow you can kneel on while doing this, it’ll save your knees. Does mowing over the roots really damage the tree?  Damage to surface roots by the mower are not just superficial damage. It weakens the tree’s defence against the elements, making it vulnerable to disease and pests. Just like us, open wounds are not something you want for a healthy tree.  Many people are not aware that injury and infection started by lawnmower wounds can often be the most serious threat to tree health. Although large wounds are most serious, repeated small wounds can also add up to trouble. Tree bark isn’t just a protective outer layer of the tree (like our skin), it’s also an essential part of the tree’s delivery system: transporting vital nutrients. Depending on how severe the wound is, it can reduce or cut off the flow of water and nourishment that’s fed into the tree by the roots You could also think of roots as a kind of anchor; trees are heavy, especially as they get bigger. Roots are the support system that keeps the tree in the ground and standing upright. Damage to the roots, when significant enough, or on a critical root, will

So, it’s time to mow the lawn. But the grass is still wet and you’re left asking yourself, “To mow, or not to mow: that is the question?” Mowing wet grass damages it, puts it at risk of fungal disease and can even kill it. Cutting wet grass can also ruin your mower and put your own personal safety at risk. If you want to do what’s best for you, your lawn and your equipment; don’t mow the grass while it’s damp. But if you have no other option, mowing wet grass is possible. But there are some things you need to be aware of to do it properly and safely. So, why shouldn’t you mow grass when it’s wet? I’m glad you asked! Read on to immerse yourself in the wonderful world of mowing wet grass. If you’re looking for the short version, scroll down to the heading “So is mowing wet grass bad?” Why should you not cut wet grass? It’s never the best idea to mow wet grass as it will cost you more time and energy in the extra work that it creates. Grass is heavier when wet and are often bent under the weight of the water. Once the grass dries, and the blades spring back up you’ll need to do the job all over again; making your first mow a waste of time and energy. Unless you really love mowing, save it for when you’ll be able to do the job just once. Not only that, mowing wet grass is bad for the overall health of your lawn, for several reasons. So if you are still asking if it is it better to mow before or after rain, then in most cases mowing grass before a rain is best. Can You Mow In The Rain? The thing to think of before mowing in the rain is your own personal safety. Grass is a very slick surface when wet, which puts you at risk of slipping. That alone can put you at risk of a pulled muscle or damaged tailbone (landing on that is incredibly painful, believe me). Add a lawnmower into the mix, and the risk of body parts going under it, and I’m sure you can see how this could end very badly. Mowing accidents do happen, and they aren’t pretty. Perhaps you have the right kind of grippy shoes or just aren’t worried about slipping. In that case, why not go ahead and mow the lawn in the rain? As long as the landscape is not too soggy, you are likely to get away with mowing in the rain. But if the ground is too wet it can cause lawn ruts which is a whole other problem. You need to assess if it is a light sprinkle of rain or a heavy down pour and use your common sense! Read on for more issues and solutions around mowing wet lawn. Mowing After Rain – Damp grass doesn’t cut cleanly. There’s nothing nicer than the look of a freshly cut lawn. That is unless you cut it wet!! When you cut wet, you run the risk of mud tracking. This is when the mower tires bring the muddy water to the surface and covers the blades of the grass. It is really quite ugly, and won’t go away until your next rain. I have to take a picture of a mower track, but until I do here is mud tracking done by a car on lawn Will mowing wet grass kill it? Mowing your lawn wet does not guarantee that you will kill it. But it is likely to do some harm, and can ultimately kill it and cause a patchy lawn. When mowing a wet lawn you’re actually opening the door for fungus and disease to take hold of your lawn! This is because wet grass doesn’t cut cleanly, it tears. These tears, combined with the damp, create the perfect conditions for fungal growth and turf diseases. If the grass is wet, then the soil beneath it probably is as well. You don’t want to mow on moist ground; your mower can sink into it. The degree of damage depends on the degree of damp: if the earth is really soggy, the wheels will form ruts, directly damaging the grass, and tearing up the roots. Once that happens, yep that lawn is not coming good again for a while. The other less obvious danger is if the ground isn’t soggy enough for the wheels to sink in, the soil will still be compacted by the mowing. While this might not sound too bad on the surface, it does affect the root system beneath. A healthy lawn needs its roots to be able to access oxygen, water and nutrients to survive (Just like us!). When the soil gets compacted, it means that these essentials can’t get in, and the grass dies. How do I stop grass from clumping when I mow? When you mow wet grass it clumps together, creating problems for your lawn and your mower. The clumps of clippings left on the lawn can kill the patches of grass beneath it. This is because, the grass underneath does not get enough sunlight and airflow. On top of this there is prolonging the damp in that spot and again, enabling fungal strains and diseases to take hold. If you want to grow a beautiful, healthy lawn to impress your friends (who wouldn’t be proud of a well-maintained lawn?), then the last thing you need is ugly brown patches of diseased turf. These will take time to heal and may require the purchase and use of fungicide before your lawn is healthy again. Wet grass stains. Cut wet grass stains a lot. Everything it gets on will be green. You, your shoes, your driveway, any place the clippings are blown. It will transfer to your floors if you don’t take your shoes off at the door. Wet grass even stains concrete, and it takes a lot of scrubbing to

Sadly, fighting fires is becoming more common. Two thousand homes have been destroyed in the recent bush fires raging across Australia. Having fire fighting pumps on a property can help save a home or building. Choosing the best kind of fire pump can make all the difference. There are many things to consider. It’s always best to know what conditions you might encounter. The right fire fighting pump will give your building a head start when fires get too close for comfort. If you choose to stay at home and fight the fires, you need a fire fighting pump. It’s as simple as that. You’ll need to choose a pump that meets flow and pressure requirements, government standards, and can handle other purposes as well as fire fighting. To make sure you have all the information you need, here’s what to look for when choosing a fire fighting pump. Determining Your Fire Fighting Pump Needs The most important thing you need to do when considering a fire fighting pump is to work out what your needs are. You need to consider the conditions your pump will work under. You’ll want to make sure you understand any state and government regulations. Make sure you’re aware of the water supply situation. You’ll need to know how much water flow and water pressure you’re likely to need, too. Conditions and Regulations The local conditions are one of the biggest factors to keep in mind. Are wildfires a regular occurrence where you live? Do some research on the weather and environment in which you live.  Standards Australia has specific regulations for water storage to follow for your fire pump needs. There’s also a handy checklist produced by the Pump Industry Association and the Fire Protection Association Australia you can use to make sure you’re complying with all the rules. Water Supply Knowing about the water supply in your area is also important. It won’t matter what kind of pump you install if the water supply is going to limit the amount of water coming through the system and into your pump. If there are no bodies of water to tap into and you’re using a community hydrant system you should determine what the supply is through that hydrant to that you get the right-sized pump.  Pressure You may have enough water supply and flow, but your pump also needs enough pressure in the system to push the water through to quench the fire. That’s where your pump comes in, of course. A good fire-fighting pump will make sure you can reach the fire itself.  Planning ahead and knowing what you need will ensure you get the right kind of fire fighting pump. Following the guidelines above means, you won’t be fighting a fire in the future and wishing you had a different kind of pump. Different Types of Fire Fighting Pumps Once you have assessed the conditions and you understand the requirements, you’ll be ready to think about the technical aspects of your fire fighting pump. The three main things on your checklist will be size, power, and quality. Each aspect is important to consider and all three need to match your needs. Size and Power Size doesn’t just refer to the actual capacity of the pump. The hose you use also needs to be the right size. If your hose doesn’t match your pump capacity you’re limiting the potential of your pump. The power source for your pump is also a decision you’ll need to make. General water pumps are mains powered, but having a backup power source is crucial in case the electricity is affected by the fire. Diesel and petrol are your two main options for a fire fighting pump.  Mobile Fire Pump If you’re planning for the fire seasons and live in a fire prone area then you should consider putting in a water tank that you don’t tap into for drinking. This tank should have the appropriate fitting if the fire brigade ever need to connect to it, and it also give you a water source- as fire often occurs in drought. A mobile fire fighting pump isn’t as powerful as a fixed one, but for most private homes it’s likely to be the option you choose.  You’ve determined the conditions and the type of pump you need, so you’re most of the way there. But there’s a couple more things to put on your checklist before putting down hard cash. Other Things to Consider Your budget will also determine the kind of fire fighting pump you choose. What is the landscape like? You might need a pump that is more powerful to move water up slopes. It’s hard to predict the future, of course, but thinking about it upfront will at least mean you’re prepared.  There’s lots to contemplate, but you’ve got the information you need. Put all the items above into your decision on which fire fighting pump to install. Build Your Next Home with a Fire Fighting Pump None of us wants to have to fight a fire at our home. Still, it’s a necessity, especially if you live in an area where wildfires are common. Even if you don’t think you’re at immediate risk, if you’re building a new home or renovating your current one, having a fire plan is smart. Little things like cleaning your gutters, roofs and down pipes from leaves and debris. Many experts recommend cleaning your gutters at least twice a year– once in the late spring and once in the late summer/early Autumn. Mowing your lawn regularly and cutting down any overhanging branches from near your house. And don’t forget to prune nearby shrubs. At Canberra Diamond Blade Suppliers, we can help you find the best pump for your needs. We have access to a wide inventory and different dealers. We want to help you prepare for the worst so that if it happens you have less to worry about. Also don’t forget a few things like keeping your car filled with fuel during fire season. You don’t want to be stranded with an

You might think that render is only applied to exterior walls, to provide a waterproof coating or to create an attractive finish. But did you know that rendering interior walls can set your house apart from the rest. You can render internal walls to create stand out design features in any home or office. Internal render improve the appearance of an outdated wall, create a feature, and add modern appeal. Internal render is versatile and can be used in any room. What makes concrete rendering such an effective material and how should you use it in your property or for a commercial fit out? What Is Internal Concrete Rendering? To begin with, it is probably worth examining exactly what concrete rendering is. It is the same as rendering with cement – both terms are interchangeable. Either way, rendering with concrete is a very low-cost way of forming a smooth wall surface on any type of masonry. If you have an internal wall made of besser blocks, for example, then concrete rendering can make it look much smoother and aesthetically pleasing. It can also spruce up internal walls made from standard brickwork. What is the mix for cement render? All that you need to render a wall with concrete is a mixture of sand, cement, water and lime. Coarse sand is perfect for the first layer of render while fine sand makes for a more attractive finish for the final, outer layer. The lime helps prevent unwanted fissures from forming once the water has evaporated out of the mixture. So you are left with a hard, dry and smooth finished layer. A common mix ratio used for rendering is 6 parts sand, 1 part cement and 1 part lime Concrete render feature wall It is fair to say that concrete rendering is usually used outside because it has protective qualities. It helps protect walls from excessive sunlight and rainwater. But, this does not mean that it is only good for outdoor applications. Rooms like bathrooms and kitchens can benefit from the water protection properties of concrete rendering. But because of the versatility of concrete render, you can used it on any interior wall simply to make it look better. It can also cover up any outdated styles and imperfections in the masonry. A Concrete Render Finish- Make your Wall Spectacular! When it comes to concrete rendering, you have a whole range of creative opportunities. You don’t need to limit the look of your wall to an application of a smooth layer of cement mixture alone. You can really make a statement by working into the render lots of different patterns while the mixture is wet. Commonly, people apply swirls with grooved instruments into their render to make attractive shapes that will set hard and remain permanently in place. Can you Colour cement render? You can also add dye to render which can give you a completely different look to a standard painted wall. A concrete render has more depth and personality. Concrete works very well with dyes so it doesn’t always have to be a grey and monotone material. You can also throw other additives in to add little bits of sparkle here and there too. And of course… you can paint a rendered concrete wall. If you go down this route, then a smooth rendered finish is probably what you are after. It is possible to paint over texture render, but just make sure your render is fully dry before painting it. The right rendering tools for the job When using concrete render, you need the right rendering equipment or you won’t get the look you want. Whether you are a professional tradesperson working for an office fit out company or a DIY enthusiast, we have a large range of concrete rendering tools and supplies available to purchase. Ideally, you’ll have a wire brush and a stiff broom which will help you to fully prepare the masonry you’ll be applying the new render to. It needs to be as clean as possible before you begin. You will also need a suitable container for your mixture. Smaller walls may just need a large bucket, but for bigger ones a deep wheelbarrow and a mixing shovel might be easier. A trowel is the tool you will need to apply your render by hand, but a large section of straight wood is also a requirement so that you can keep each layer as flat and even as possible. In addition, you will need a metal hawk, the same sort of tool that professional plasterers use, to smooth over your render. The final item that will come in handy is a sponge trowel. This can remove excess render by moving in gentle, circular motions. Adding the Wow Factor to Your Home Concrete walls make a bold statement. If your home has a mixture of different materials – woodwork, masonry and plasterboard – a concrete render feature can really add the wow factor. The unifying nature of concrete render, even if you choose to paint it, will provide a more architecturally satisfying appearance in your home. Of course, once it is up, no one will ever know what lies beneath and most rendered walls look like they are solid concrete so you get a strong visual design that makes your whole home appear more grand. Concrete Interior Render in Modern Office Spaces Bear in mind that it is not just homes that will look good with either a patterned wall formed from concrete render or a smooth and minimalist one from undecorated cement. After all, business premises can also benefit from the same sort of finishes following a commercial fit out. And business often lead the way with new innovative designs and styles! One of the best things about using concrete to render interior walls in workplaces is that it provides such a modern look. All over the world, concrete is an on-trend material that people are enjoying as something that is seen as cool. Polished concrete floors,

No matter your trade, there’s no doubt that you have come across diamond blades cutting construction material on your worksite. And for speed and versatility, it is no wonder… Diamond blades are useful for cutting quickly and cleanly through reinforced materials like bricks, blocks, walls, glass, tiles and concrete. This has made them an incredibly popular choice in the construction industry. But have you ever wondered why some blades last longer than others? Are you sick of replacing blades all the time? What if changing one thing could transform your job? This sounds like something that could never happen. However, everything changes when you change blades. The type of blade you use in your tools makes a huge difference in how the job gets done. And these blades don’t come cheap, so you need to know what you’re working with, and how to choose the best one for the task at hand. BUT it can be hard to know where to start – there are so many different kinds of blades and tools available, and each one serves a different purpose. Homeowners and construction professionals often use traditional saw blades or abrasive blades. Unfortunately, these are easily damaged and must often be replaced. You can avoid this by switching to diamond blades. In this handy guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about diamond blade tools. Keep reading to learn more! What Are Diamond Blades? Diamond blades are part of a larger family of diamond cutting tools. Diamond cutting tools have a steel drill tube or core, and a cutting edge that contains diamond pieces. Common diamond cutting tools include diamond drills, diamond blades, diamond grinding tools and polycrystalline diamond (PCD cutting tools). Do Diamond blades have real diamonds? Despite the name, the blades are not made fully of diamonds. They are made of powdered metal laid over a core of steel that has been mixed with diamond crystals. These aren’t the type of diamonds you’d find in jewellery, they are synthetic diamonds made with a high-temperature, high-pressure synthesis process. The concentration and quality of the diamonds within each segment has a vital role on the way the tool performs. This diamond tipped cutting edge allows for the highest efficiency while cutting materials. The final result is more than just another tool. It is an investment in the quality of every single job that you work on. But, use the wrong blade for the material and you will grind your blade dull. Keep reading to discover all of the benefits of using these blades and how to make sure you are using the right ones. What’s the difference between a Steel Saw blade and a Diamond Saw Blade? While a standard steel saw blade has teeth to slice through softer materials like wood, Diamond blades cut dense, hard materials that are too tough for wood and metal saw blades. But, they are not all created equal. Just as there are different wood saw blades for soft or hardwood, diamond blades come designed for a range of uses. In order for any blade to cut through the material, it must be made from a substance that is harder than material to be cut. Diamonds are one of the strongest natural substances known to exist on earth. Steel, stone and concrete are some of the toughest materials available and require some tougher-than-normal saw blades to cut through them. Diamond saw blades are an incredibly useful tool for cutting through materials, and are extensively used for precise and heavy-duty cutting. On the job site they are regularly used for cutting through reinforced materials like bricks, blocks, walls and concrete. Their strength allows for a more effective, smoother cut than other blades. This has made them an incredibly popular advancement in the construction industry. Can you use a diamond blade on an angle grinder? You can use a smaller diamond blades on an angle grinder. Angle grinders are small portable tools that are great for precision work on concrete. Because diamond blades are more resistant to heat and friction than many other blades, they are a great choice for angle grinders which are hardy and powerful little tools. Can you use a diamond blade on a circular saw? You can use a diamond blade on a circular saw, but as these are smaller tools, they wouldn’t be the best choice when cutting thick layers of hard material like stone or concrete. A demo saw would be a better choice for diamond blades. Demo saws are more powerful and bigger, so they won’t die half way through the job and they ca hold big enough blades to cut deep. Because diamonds are incredibly hard and have a high melting point, diamond tools are regularly used within the construction industry where hard materials need to be cut – the size of the tool needs to match the size of the job. We recommend that demo saws are the better tool choice for diamond blades. They are the blade of choice for bricklayers, concreters, landscapers and for civil construction. Save Money Let’s be honest upfront. Diamond blades are going to cost you more money than traditional saw or abrasive blades. Despite the extra cost, diamond blades will save you money in the long term. This is because they last longer than most other blades. Additionally, they can be used for multiple different purposes. This lets you buy a single tool for multiple indoor and outdoor projects instead of buying multiple tools. Finally, they are an investment in quality. Buying longer-lasting tools means having to replace them less frequently. And for homeowners and professionals alike, time really is money! Save Time These blades typically offer a better speed than you get with traditional abrasive cutting discs. This is because they can deal with heat better and have better debris removal. Faster cutting speed will add up when you look at the amount of time you  spend cutting. The math is simple: saving time on every single cut

Each summer in Australia, communities around the country are impacted by bushfire and wildfire. Threatening people’s lives, properties, their way of life, and all the wildlife that is destroyed. Often these fires occur in state forests, which consist of dense eucalyptus trees and thick undergrowth. Unfortunately, if a fire starts in there and gets out of control, it is very hard and many times impossible for humans to put it out. While a fire may be many kilometers away from your house, you may still be acutely aware of it’s dooming presence.  On some days the sky can actually turn a dark orange as the sun desperately seeks to shine through the smoke. And the sky turns into a thick haze of blurry smoke, preventing you from seeing meters ahead of you.  When this happens you realise how leaky your house is. With the wildfire smoke finding any gaps, and sneaking in. While you appreciate that this is a much lesser issue than what the communities on the front line are dealing with.  You wonder, what can I do to reduce this? What is the best way of dealing with smoke in your home? How can you get rid of bushfire smoke from the house? Is smoky air dangerous? Smoky air from a bush fire causes air pollution and contaminates the air we breathe. Since bush fire smoke is a combination of different-sized particles, water vapour and poisonous gases, too much is harmful to your health. Microscopic particles that are smaller than 2.5 micrometres can cross into the blood stream, creating inflammation make you sick. Does Bushfire smoke affect us all equally? Smoky air from wildfires is most dangerous to the elderly, babies and young children, and people with heart or lung conditions. If members of your household fall into any of these categories, you really should take as many measures that you can to reduce your exposure to the smoke haze. Why are the elderly more vulnerable to smoky air? In general older people are more likely to have chronic age-related diseases, be on multiple medications, and have weaker immune systems. According to a US study on bushfire smoke and the elderly, they found that compared to older men, older women across all races are most likely to be admitted to hospital due to smoky air from wild fires. Is bushfire smoke bad for babies? Babies and young children are more vulnerable to smoky air than adults as their airways are still developing. They also breathe much faster than older children and adults therefore proportionally breathing more air in. The other reason they are more effected is that particles fall onto surfaces and babies are on floors etc closer to the resting particles. How do you deal with smoky air from wildfires? The most important thing with smoke haze is to avoid exposure to it. This is done by preventing it from entering your home or going outside. Most importantly, STAY INDOORS WITH YOUR WINDOWS AND DOORS SHUT. Do not use your bathroom or kitchen extraction fan. These are ventilation systems that are designed to exchange indoor air for outdoor air. These create a vacuum and all air removed from your home has to be replaced. This will more rapidly suck air from the outside in through all the little cracks in your home bringing more smoky air inside. Tape up your windows Stand near your windows and see if you can feel any leaks. Use tape to cover these up. Some tapes like masking tape or painters tape are less likely to harm paintwork. But if allowed to age for more than a few weeks they can dry out and be hard to remove (a hairdryer can help soften the tape) but its best to redo the tape every couple of weeks if the smoke is sticking around. Seal your doors. Weather seals are inexpensive and can be left there after the smoke leaves to give you the added benefit of preventing winter draughts. If the smoke is already upon you, it is better to wait until it passes as applying a weather seal means opening the door. You can tape your doors up (this will mean you can’t use them). Similar to your windows use the most paint friendly tape you have on hand, and don’t leave it there for weeks to age. Another easy tip is the lay wet towels along the base of the door. The gap at the bottom is usually the largest door gap. A wet towel does a better job of trapping particles than a dry one. Turn off and cover your evaporative cooler An evaporative cooler brings in air from the outside, so you need to turn it off and make sure all the cooling vents in your ceiling are closed. If you are still concerned that smoke is still coming through your evaporative units vent system. You can: Note: it is a good idea to stick a note on the control panel to remind you to and family members remove any covers before turning the unit on again How to get bushfire smoke out of house? So you realised too late, or the kids left the door open. What ever the reason, you might find your house full of smoke. Then you are left wondering how to reduce smoky air in the house. Do air conditioners filter out smoke? If you have an air conditioner (not an evaporative cooler), you can turn it on. It will circulate the air, and will pick up particles in its filter. Air conditioners are heat exchangers and air recyclers. This means that heat in your air is absorbed and pushed outside – not the air itself. The air conditioner works on the air that is inside your house already. So outdoor air is not being pulled into your home, leaving the smog outside. Do humidifiers help with smoke? Humidifiers may make your house more comfortable by adding moisture to the air therefore keeping your noise and mouth moist. But

It’s important to know the correct 2 stroke mix ratio for your engine. The first thing you need to do is check the manual that came with your machine. It should tell you the correct ratio required for your 2-stroke mix. If you can’t find the specific ratio for your mix, 40:1 is accepted as an average ratio for two-stroke engines. This is 125mls of two stroke oil to 5L of fuel. 2 Stroke Fuel Mix Calculator Quickly and accurately calculate fuel/oil mixes easily in seconds! To calculate the amount of oil you need to get the exact 2stroke oil ratio for your 2–stroke engine, use our fuel ratio calculator. 2 Stroke Oil Mix Calculator 2 Stroke Oil Mix Ratio : 1 Quantity Of Petrol/Gas Litres   400 milliliters of oil for 2 liters of gas at 5:1 Whether you need a 50 1 calculator, 40 1 calculator or any oil to petrol ratio, our 2 stroke oil mix calculator can tell you exactly how much oil you need per litre of fuel. Got another ratio and need to work out how much oil to add? Then just enter your ratio and oil amounts in our 2 stroke fuel calculator above. What Machines use 2 Stroke Engines? Even though most cars and motorcycles have four-stroke motors, there are still a few bikes with two-stroke engines (also known as two-cycle engines) . Also plenty of other machines use two-stroke engines — like model aeroplanes, chainsaws, mowers, leaf blowers, string trimmers / whipper snippers, construction machinery, and snowmobiles. What is 2 stroke fuel? Two stroke fuel is basically unleaded petrol mixed with 2 stroke oil. The oil to fuel mix ratio should be specified in your engines instruction manual. The oil in 2 stroke fuel is extremely important in lubricating your engine as two stroke engines do not have an internal oil reservoir. Without the oil, you risk destroying your engine. That is why it is so important to get your 2stroke oil mix right the first time! Why Shouldn’t You Put Straight Petrol into a Two Stroke Engine? Four stroke petrol is straight unleaded petrol (known in the USA as Gas) will rapidly reduce the lifespan of your 2 stroke engine — and by a considerable amount. This is the wrong fuel for a 2 stroke motor, as it doesn’t provide the quality of lubrication that you need. It almost goes without saying, by forcing an engine to run without the correct lubrication you are almost guaranteed in damaging the piston and cylinders. Unfortunately, it’s hard to replace these parts and can be expensive, as its what you call an “engine rebuild”. This is easily preventable just by mixing the fuel and oil correctly. What is the best 2 stroke ratio? The precise 2 stroke oil ratio depends on your manufacturers instructions, as each engine can have varied requirements. The two stroke mix ratio depends on the year your equipment was made, and/or the make of your equipment. Your mix needs to be as accurate as possible, putting neither too much, or too little oil. If you put too much, it may stop the engine, generate carbon buildup, and blow smoke which is particularly bad for the environment. But if you put in too little, it will (with time) damage your engine permanently and overheat. 40 to 1 ratio If you are unsure 40:1 is a middle range 2 stroke fuel ratio. This equals 25mls of two stroke oil to 1 litre of petrol. It is pretty easy to calculate, you just multiply the litre amount by 25. But since we like to keep things as simple as possible you work out your 40 to 1 mix with our calculator above, we have included a 40:1 mix chart for both litres and gallons. 40:1 Fuel mix chart Litres Many brands also recommend a 40 to 1 ratio, if that’s the case then just input into our calculator ’40’ in as the ‘2 stroke oil mix ratio’ and ‘1’ as the quantity and it will work as a 40 to 1 calculator for you. But if you are wanting a physical table that shows the 40 to 1 mix in Litres, the chart below will give you the correct measurements. Fuel – Litres (L) Oil – Millitres (mls) 1 25 2 50 3 75 4 100 5 125 6 150 7 175 8 200 9 225 10 250 12 300 14 350 16 400 18 450 20 500 40 to 1 Fuel Mix Chart Gallons The following is a 40 to 1 Fuel Mix Chart in Gallons. You can print this handy table and keep it in your shed so you always have it available. Just remember, if you ever need to work out your 40:1 ratio in gallons just multiple the number of gallons by 3.2, so a 40 to 1 oil mix for 6 gallons is 19.2fl oz. Fuel – Gallons (gal) Oil – Fluid Ounce (fl oz) 1/2 1.6 1 3.2 1.5 4.8 2 6.4 2.5 8 3 9.6 3.5 11.2 4 12.8 4.5 14.4 5 16 5.5 17.6 6 19.2 6.5 20.8 7 22.4 7.5 24 50 to 1 ratio The best thing about the 50 to 1 ratio is that it is so each to calculate! To work out this 2 stroke ratio, all you need to do is multiply the litre amount by 2 and add a zero. But as you know we like to keep things as simple as possible. So not only can you work out your 50 to 1 mix with our calculator above, we have included a 50:1 mix chart for both litres and gallons. 50:1 Fuel mix chart Litres Many brands also recommend a 50 to 1 ratio, if that’s the case then just input into our calculator ’50’ in as the ‘2 stroke oil mix ratio’ and ‘1’ as the quantity and it will work as a 50 to 1 calculator for you. But if you are wanting a physical table that shows the 50 to 1 mix in Litres, the chart below

While there are great systems available on the private market place, this is not suitable for everyone. When you’re just starting out, or if you’re used to the good old pen and carbon paper invoicing book, you might be looking for something to make it easier. You want this because it doesn’t cost you a monthly fee. We like to help our tradies out where we can. Therefore, we have created a template that you can use. To use this template, you will need Excel or a freeware compatible software for Excel. A simple search on Google should help you find one. Customisation of the template This template is 100% free for you to use. We haven’t password protected it or placed any advertising in it. We want you to maintain your professional and expert look when managing your business. Once downloaded, we recommend you fill in all your details first up and save that as your master template. That way you only have to fill those details once. Each time you open it, save it as a new name. Then just enter your builder’s  details and job details and quantities. We have ‘protected’ the cells containing the formulas, which are the brain of your spreadsheet. They perform all those calculations. The reason we have done this is so you can’t accidentally type over them. If you want to add your logo to the template to give it that extra professional look and feel – that is easy. First, you will need to go to the Review tab and select “Unprotect Sheet”. Then go to the “Insert” tab. Click in the top right corner and click “Pictures”. Browse your computer for your logo. After that, go back to the Review Tab and select “Protect Sheet”. Finally, just click OK. That action just re-protects the spreadsheet’s formulas so you can’t overwrite them.  Tell me if you like it If you have found this useful, please leave us a Facebook like. Or even better, a Google review (you will need a Gmail account to do a Google review). You don’t have to, but feedback inspires me to create more useful content for you! DOWNLOAD THE INVOICE TEMPLATE HERE We also have a free Quote Template available here Legalities: This template may not contain everything required for your business. In using this template, you accept that it is your responsibility to ensure you have appropriate financial and legal advice for your business or company. We are not financial or legal advisers. By using this template, you also agree that you are responsible for checking calculations and ensuring accuracy on an ongoing basis. You will not hold CDBS Construction and Garden liable for any inaccuracies within the template. This template is for individual use for the purpose of preparing individual business invoices. This template is not to be copied, distributed or used in any other way without seeking consent from CDBS Construction and Garden Centre. This template is protected by copywrite. © CDBS Construction and Garden Centre – All rights reserved. See website T&C for further information.

Quoting jobs can be time consuming and nerve wracking. You’ve got to think ahead, and make sure you don’t miss anything or it could cost you. It could cost you big time. At CDBS Construction Centre, we want to help our customer’s work smarter. Don’t reinvent the wheel each time you do a quote… you’ll be just asking for trouble. Not only will it take longer each time, but one day you’ll forget to include something… and it will hurt. To get your business to grow, it’s good to get into the habit of streamlining tasks… think about how you can work more efficiently… What can you do to save time? And if you’re smart… how can you reinvest that time to get better results? Quoting Bricklaying Jobs can be easier and faster with CDBS Construction Center’s Free Expert Quote Checklist. You might be wondering why a brickie tool shop would create a free quoting checklist? It seems a bit out of scope? We don’t think so. The whole reason we own a bricklaying speciality store is because we own a bricklaying business. We bought this store because of this experience and passion with the trade. So we have first hand experience on what it takes to build a bricklaying business from the ground up. We have done this through hard work, plenty of mistakes, some guts, and lots of learning… The most important thing we learned is how to focus. Focusing on what the dream is, and what tasks  are most likely to get us there. While other people are stuck in the daily grind, dealing with small issues that stop them from making real progress… we try and focus on the most important things that usually make all that little stuff just disappear. We believe you can do the same to grow your business. We use our little tool shop to share our experiences, and our learning. We use our tool shop to give some time back to brickies Writing articles on tools, and providing free templates like this to help build businesses. Sending professional tools directly to homes and worksites … getting rid of just another insignificant job of your to-do list. So why use a bricklaying quote checklist? There is no better way to save time than to record all the variables that you might need to quote for in one spot. That way you’re less likely to miss something which will end up costing your hip pocket. We have got you started with this checklist. It contains common things you may need to quote on for bricklaying jobs. Even better, if you input your quantities and price it will auto-calculate the totals for you. What’s best is you can add to the list yourself as well… and it is simple to do. Once added, your extra items will auto-calculate as well. How do I use this checklist All you need to do is enter your Unit Price and Quantities and the rest works like magic. All the sums will total up for you. Once you are sure you’ve included everything, you can go ahead and put your quote together. All you need is excel, or a freeware compatible software for excel (a simple search on google for “freeware excel” should help you find one)

What could be worse than choosing the wrong chainsaw for the job? Picking the wrong chainsaw blades. But it can be hard to navigate all the different types of chainsaw chains available. You might be wondering what is the difference in chainsaw chains? There are a large number of different chainsaw blades. Each type is made up from a configuration of the following 5 elements: The pitch and gauge are predetermined by your chainsaw. Once you know this, you can choose from the remaining elements to design a chain. When it comes to making sure you have the right replacement chainsaw blade, you don’t want to cut corners with your chainsaw’s chain. So we have pulled all the information together in one spot to make this the only chainsaw chain guide you will ever need! We have made sure this guide to chainsaw chain types has enough detail to equip you to make an informed decision just like pro. What is the difference in chainsaw chains? We are now going to go through step by step each element in our chainsaw chain types chart pictured at the top of this blog. We have put together the following detailed outline of the different types of chainsaw blades, and a chainsaw chain replacement chart pictured at the top of this blog. This chainsaw chain identification chart goes through all the elements you need to consider at a high level to choose the right chain saw chain. Read on to learn more detail about each element outlined in our chainsaw chain types chart. This will help you work out the best chainsaw chain for your wood cutting project. First up: Choose a chain saw chain that matches your chainsaw settings! Before you delve into all the different types of chainsaw chains. There is something vitally important I have to tell you about chains for chainsaws. Some aspects of your chainsaw chain you can choose based on your skill levels and the type of chainsaw cutting projects. Other aspects are set by the machine you have. There are many chainsaw chain differences across the board, and there are no universal chainsaw chains. The ‘pitch’ and ‘gauge’, and also to some degree the length of the bar, are determined by your chainsaw. You can’t choose these aspects of a chain saw chain. Pitch and Gauge The pitch and gauge are key compatibility components of the chain saw chain. It is for this reason that there are no universal chainsaw chains. You need to make sure the chain saw chain you choose is actually going to fit into the part that drives the chain around the guide bar. If your chain saw chain does not match the settings on your chainsaw, the chain will jam up and won’t work, and the guide bar will lock up. You need to know your chainsaw’s pitch and gauge This is the first thing you need to know when working out which chainsaw chain to choose. You should be able to find your chainsaw’s pitch and gauge marked on your chainsaw or in your manufacturers handbook. When it is marked on the chainsaw, it is usually on a label under the handle. You can see in this picture of a Husqvarna chainsaw, the chainsaw pitch and gauge is noted as well as the length of the guide bars that can be used. We will also go further into the different types of pitch and gauge below for those of you who are in the market for a new chainsaw. Length of the Chainsaw Guide Bar When it comes to the length of the guide bar you have a little bit of room for choice. Technically, any length guide bar will fit on any size chainsaw as long as the pitch and gauge match. But… The bigger the chainsaw guide bar the more force you need to apply when driving it into the wood. For a bigger bar, you also need more power (cc’s). Especially when you consider a bigger bar is normally used on thicker pieces of wood. For this reason, manufacturer’s provide a recommended guide bar length for their chainsaws. It’s probably a good idea to stick with the recommendation. If you want to put a bigger bar on, we advise you to only go up one size from the manufacturers recommendation. Ok, now you know the importance of the pitch, gauge and bar length, lets talk about what sizes and configurations are available. Let’s now delve into the nitty gritty of the different chainsaw chain types… Guide to the Different Type of Chainsaw Blades So now you understand what the gauge and pitch actually are, we are going to start looking in detail about the different sizes, shapes, and styles of all components of a chainsaw blade and what each is good for. Also, to use a chainsaw safely, you must know about the different types of chainsaw blade options, and when one is better to use than another. If you don’t use the right type of chainsaw blade, you run the risk of breaking it. This can not only cost you money but can also be dangerous. There are a large number of different types of chainsaw blades. Various configurations of pitch, gauge, cutter material, cutter style and chain arrangement all create unique chainsaw chain types. Each chainsaw chain type has different cutting characteristics and is suited to different machines and user skill level. Read on to learn about each of the configurations that can be put together to make different chainsaw chain types. 1. Chain Pitch Chain saw chains come in different pitch sizes. The pitch of the chains is the distance between the drive links. As mentioned above, the pitch is an important compatibility component of your chainsaw chain. The pitch of the chain, the pitch of the guide bar and the pitch of the chainsaw drive sprocket need to all match. The pitch that is compatible with your chainsaw is usually marked on